Early morning mist on the mountain

Early morning mist on the Outeniqua Mountains.  The first thing I saw when I came out of my log cabin at Eight Bells Mountain Inn outside Mossel Bay.

Eight Bells Mountain Inn

Eight Bells Mountain Inn used to be one of my regular stops on tour back when I was a tourist guide but since then I haven't had a chance to visit.  Until a few weeks ago.  A return trip from Cape Town to Port Elizabeth meant that I had to stay over in Mossel Bay to be able to do some business on the Garden Route and Rene' Bongers, MD of Eight Bells heard that I was heading that way and invited me to come and spend the night.

 

Eight Bells started out as a holiday farm 80 odd years ago and has developed over the years to become a full service hotel with 25 en-suite bathrooms.  I was lucky enough to stay in one of their log cabins which is only a short walk from the main building.

The log cabins are great accommodation and feels a bit more private than being inside a hotel so ideal for honeymoon couples - which I clearly wasn't being on my own on this trip.  But I wasn't complaining.  As I mentioned, Eight Bells is a full service hotel so I decided to have dinner in the Oakroom Restaurant, the hotel's in-house restaurant.  I noticed a tour group having pre-dinner drinks in the lounge area so I made sure I was in the restaurant before them.  What amazed me most during my stay was that I recognized the two ladies working there from when I used to stay and that is a good 10 years ago.  Just shows that the staff is like family.  The food was just as good as I remembered as well with the ostrich bobotie my meal of choice this time around.

Waking up early the next morning this was the view waiting for me outside my cabin.  The Outeniqua Mountains in their full glory.  Its been a while since I've crossed from here over to Oudtshoorn on the Robertson Pass but as I'm heading to the Garden Route it may have to wait a bit longer for my next trip over.

After a hearty breakfast I took a walk around the grounds before heading off to Mossel Bay.  The outdoor facilities include everything from a swimming pool, tennis courts, squash courts and bowling green to hiking trails and horse rides.  The perfect family break away. *makes note on my "to visit with the family" list*

Disclosure: I stayed at Eight Bells Mountain Inn as guest of the hotel

but paid for my own dinner and transport

Mossel Bay's lighthouse

 

The western point of Mossel Bay is named Cape St Blaze and long before the first Europeans arrived in South Africa this area was home to the Khoi people.  The Khoi found shelter in the caves along this coastline, one which can be found directly below the lighthouse where archaeological digs have found that the early inhabitants lived on the abundance of shellfish available from the rocks below. 

 

 

The Cape St Blaze Lighthouse was erected in 1864 and up until recently was one of the last South African lighthouses that was manned 24 hours a day.  Until the late 1970's the lighthouse worked on a clockwork system to turn the lens and a lighthouse keeper had to climb up the tower every three hours to wind it up.  These days all the navigational aids and joining plant are fully automated although a senior and two additional light keepers are still employed.  Constant radio watch is kept and regular meteorological duties undertaken.

Gouritz Bridge - a ghost of its former bungee self

Gouritz Bridge became the first bungee jumping site in South Africa and operated bungee jumps and bridge swings before people were throwing themselves off the 214m Bloukrans Bridge bungee site further down the Garden Route.  I used to stop at the bridge on my Garden Route tours and with more than one company offering jumps it was always a busy spot.  After offering this thrill activity for 18 years, operations seized in 2008 after it was found that the parts of the old steel bridge was badly rusted and may possibly be unsafe.  I stopped there on my way to Cape Town and it felt like I entered a ghost town.  The booking offices and bungee platforms are all still in place, slightly over grown but without a soul in sight.  Sad really.  I snapped this picture of the old railway bridge from the old road bridge with the new bridge over which the N2 runs behind me.

Dias Museum

Daai dag in 1488 toe Bartolomeu Dias in 'n storm om die Kaap gevaar and kort daarna in wat vandag Mosselbaai is geland het, sou hy seker nooit kon raai dat op daardie selfde plek vandag 'n museum sou staan wat sy naam dra nie.  Die Dias Museum kompleks het 'n fantastiese verskeindenheid van attraksies en sluit 'n skulpiesmuseum, die Munrohoekhuisies, die oorspronklike varswaterfontein waar Dias se matrose water geskep het om aan boort te neem en die Poskantoorboom in.  Die Poskantoorboom is 'n 800 jaar oue melkhoutboom waar vroeë matrose boodskappe in ou skoene gelos het met die hoop dat bote oppad terug Portugal toe dit sou optel en terugvat.

Die hoofrede hoekom mense na die Dias Museum toe kom is die Maritime Museum wat 'n lewensgrote replika van die karveel waarmee Dias en sy bemanning in 1488  die groot onbekende aangevat het bevat.  Die replika is 500 jaar na die oorspronklike een gebou en is in 1988 vanaf Portugal na Suid-Afrika gevaar voor dit in die museum gehuisves is.

Santos Pavilion

I often wonder how many people realise the significance of the Santos Pavilion on Santos Beach when they see it on their way through Mossel Bay.  This beautiful Pavilion is one of only two beach pavilions still in use dating back to Colonial times.  The other one is the famous Royal Pavilion in Brighton.  The Pavilion was built in 1916 after a local architect of the town travelled to Brighton to get ideas.  It was a very popular spot during the 1920's and 1930's as a social meeting place for the townsfolk who regularly gathered there to listen to the Band and to exchange news and gossip. 

In l925 the then Prince of Wales even stopped by the Pavilion during his visit to South Africa.  Unfortunately a fire destroyed the roof and woodwork of the building in 1979 and the remains was nearly demolished.  The building was later taken over by a private company who restored it and today there is a restaurant operating from it.

Mossel Bay War Memorial

Just about every town seem to have a war memorial of some kind (I don't mean anything bad with that, I'm just saying) and Mossel Bay is no different.  This Mossel Bay War Memorial stands at the Point below the Cape St Blaze Lighthouse on the rock formation known as Frog Rock and was unveiled on 28 September 1928.  It was designed by W.J. Delbridge of the Royal Institute of British Architects (ARIBA) in the style of the art deco period and was probably modeled on the Cenotaph in London.

The cenotaph commemorate combatants from Mossel Bay who fell in the First and Second World Wars as well as in the Korean War, and in the South African Border War with Angola.

Dana Bay

The area of Dana Bay is a suburb of Mossel Bay and is located 10 kilometers or so west of town.  In addition to being a residential area, the whole of Dana Bay is a conservancy, home to fine examples of coastal and limestone varieties of fynbos where bush buck, steenbok, mongooses and over 85 bird species roam freely.  Dana Bay boasts miles and miles of sandy beaches where visitors will also find the protected black oyster catchers.  On my visit I really enjoyed sitting on the beach at low tide watching the oyster catchers taking mussels off the rocks and opening them up with their strong beaks.  The Damselfly actually commented how she has to pay a fortune for a meal like that while they seem to get them off the rocks with very little effort. 

Dana Bay has two main beaches which was quite clearly named using as little imagination as possible.  First Beach and Second Beach.  First Beach, seemingly very popular with fishermen, is closest to Mossel Bay and stretches from the end of the rocky coast line westwards.  To me Second beach is the "romantic beach" where you can take a long quiet walk with your loved one and see very few people the further you move away from the residential area.

Mossel Bay Shell Museum

The Mossel Bay Shell Museum forms part of the Dias Museum Complex and is housed in the old Shirley Building built in 1902.  Some people may think that it could be a bit of a boring spot, but museum houses a fantastic collection of shells from all over the world along with shell related artifacts and things like whale bones.  The kids probably enjoyed this more than some of the other places have have taken them to in the past.

The museum also contains a number of aquariums with different fish and marine life in them.  Here the Damselfly and Chaos Boy has a look at an octopus in one of the tanks while the tank with Nemo the Clown Fish was also a hit.

Drama Princess had more interest in the interactive tank at the counter though.  A staff member of the museum is always on hand to point out all the interesting bits and pieces in the tank and kids are encouraged to touch and feel.

Dias Museum Complex

The first European to set foot in what in now South Africa was Portuguese explorer Bartolomeu Dias.  He inadvertently rounded the Cape in a storm and the first went ashore in present day Mossel Bay in 1488.  Due to this Mossel Bay has a close association with Dias and this is where visitors will find the Diaz Museum Complex.  The complex is made up of different components, one of them a statue of Dias himself looking out to sea.

One of the best known attractions in Mossel Bay also makes part of the Dias Museum Complex and this is the Post Office Tree.  In 1500 on a return voyage from the East, Pedro de Ataide left an important letter in a boot hanging from a tree, probably the old Milkwood Tree on the site.  The letter was found in 1501 by another ship heading to India  and so the first "post office" in South Africa started.  Sailors usually heading East started leaving letters to loved ones in the tree for ships going home to take along. 

Walking from the tree down towards the sea the fresh water fountain Aguanda de Sao Bras (Watering Point of St Blaze) can be seen.  The fountain was first documented in 1512 and was where the ships took on fresh water.  It is said that the fountain has never been dry and still runs today.  These days fresh water doesn't get sourced there anymore, but I did notice that the pond is now home to a couple of ducks.

The biggest attraction at the complex is the life sized replica of Dias' caravel.  The replica was built and sailed from Portugal to Mossel Bay in 1988 to celebrate the 500th anniversary of the arrival of Dias.  Visitors to the museum can actually get onto the boat to have a closer look.  The building it is housed in was originally built in 1901 as a grain mill and was also later used as a saw mill. 

Other than the replica of Dias' boat, the museum also houses a very good collection of paintings, artifacts and information about early explorers.  The one room contains a exhibit with life sized figures representing the Portuguese and indigenous Khoisan people meeting and interacting on the beach.  This was quite a hit with the kids as it included the sounds of the Khoisan people's bells and music along with the trumpets of the Portuguese.

Jazzburys Restaurant - Mossel Bay

I haven't really mastered the art of food photography, but there is nothing wrong with some food porn every now and then.

I struck it lucky on our recent visit to Mossel Bay by being invited to bring the family for a meal at the excellent Jazzbury Restaurant.  Its not the usual family burger joint like Spur or Wimpy where we would normally end up with the kids (for both practical and affordable purposes), so this meant giving the Rugrats a good talking to about what we expect of them before getting there.  When we arrived, a little earlier than when this pic was taken, there were a couple of people out on the veranda having a glass of wine which would have been ideal had we been on our own, but having the kids with we decided not to waist too much time and headed straight in. 

The dining area isn't overly decorated and that's the way I like it.  Elegant, yet simple.  The service was brisk and friendly and when I took a walk around one of the waiters were just too happy to have a chat with me before rushing off to wait on his tables again.

Jazzburys doesn't have a kiddies menu, but without us even having to ask the waitress immediately started making suggestion on what we could order for the kids.  After much debate we decided to get them a shared portion of... wait for it... Ostrich Wings.  Yes you heard right and if I had known what it tasted like before I ordered I would have had it too.  Imagine something that looks like chicken wings but with bigger bones and  soft and delicious red meat.  A winner if I have ever seen one.

The Damselfly was craving seafood. and not being in the mood for "boring fish" as she put it, decided on the Mussels in (I think) white wine sauce.  She counted and there were 24 mussels and she was well and truly happy with the meal.  If she could she probably would have ordered another portion just because it was so yummy.

I decided on the Lamb Shank which is the chef's speciality dish.  The meat was falling off the bone and it was served with mash and a variety of vegetables.  After the main meal we had Sago Pudding for desert before the kids got too restless and we decided to call it a night.  If anybody is ever in Mossel Bay and looking for a nice restaurant to treat a loved one, this is the place.  A special thanks to Riaan who organised the meal for us.

3D Township scene cards

The best place in Mossel Bay to find and buy local art is at the Craft Art Workshop close to the Diaz Museum Complex.  The centre is more than just a "curio shop" and over the last few years many young emerging artists have been trained by the established artists exhibiting here and now also exhibit their own products and handy work.  Visitors can browse through the display area as well as visit the workshops to see how the art is produced.

One of the artists that has been at the Craft Art Workshop from the start is Hein Marais.  Although Hein's main products are rock art images and paper-mêché, he has trained about 20 artists in different art methods.  One of his students were the late Matthews Malambile who made the Craft Art Workshop famous for his beautiful 3D township scenes.

Even though Matthews isn't with them anymore, Hein along with Matthews' wife and a number of apprentices are allowing his legacy to live on by still producing the cards.  In addition to the 3D cards the township scenes are also available on gift bags or as framed art.

Harry Giddey Park

In the heart of downtown Mossel Bay exploring visitors will find Harry Giddey Park.  The park was first laid out as a Victorian Park in the grand English manner in 1887 and was extensively upgraded in the 1940's by Harry Giddey after whom the park was renamed.

Except for the main park, there is also an section with aviaries full of birds as well as a touch farm (where strangely people aren't allowed to touch or feed the animals?????) with miniature horses, goats, chickens, tortoises and other farm animals.

Some of the aviaries have the most colourful birds in them and the Rugrats specially like this specific one.

Taking a walk through the park we exited through the southern entrance on our way back to the car.  This entrance has a set of historic gates that were erected in 1903 to commemorate the diamond jubilee of the reign of Queen Victoria.  I have passed these gates so many times on my way through Mossel Bay over the years and didn't know what they were till this specific visit.  There is always something new to learn.

Waiting for a bite

Fishermen on the beach at Dana Bay outside Mossel Bay during the late afternoon

Romanza

Any holiday maker visiting the town of Mossel Bay on the Garden Route and not going for a trip on the Romanza doesn't know what they are missing.  The Romanza is run by the Klapwijk family and has been part of Mossel Bay holiday scene for over 25 years.  She's a 16 Meter, 25 ton Hartley Design Ketch and does mostly trips out to Seal Island as well as Whale Watching trips with Sunset cruises thrown in for good measure.

Getting onto the boat was a bit of a challenge for us as Drama Princess had never been on a boat and was doing everything in her power not to embark.  After lots of persuading we got her life jacket on and took her on board and not 5 minutes later she wanted to know when we were going on it again as she loved it.  For the cruise all the kids on board was given life jackets while there are enough on hand for everybody in case its necessary. 

It was a stunning morning with barely a whisper of wind which meant the sea was flat and the cruise as smooth as you can imagine.  The Romanza sails parallel to the coast and views from the boat include the whole curving coast line from the lighthouse at the Point to Santo Beach and Diaz Strand all the way past Hartenbos towards the Outeniqua Mountains in the background.  After a smooth 20 minute we reached our turning point at Seal Island.

Seal Island is home to about 4000 Cape Fur Seals and they were literally all over the show either frolicking in the water or sunning themselves on the island.  Their feeding grounds aren't in the bay and they have to swim out to the open sea to find food.  We could probably have sat there for ages watching the seals play, but there is a cruise every hour so we had to head back to the Mossel Bay Harbour.

Sailing back gives one time to reflect on the beauty of the bay and its inhabitants.  I just want to give a special thanks to Louma at Mossel Bay Tourism and Charmaine at Romanza who made the trip on the Romanza possible for us.

St Blaze Cave

The coastline to the west of Cape St Blaze in Mossel Bay is made up of impressive cliffs looming about thundering surf and over time the elements has formed a series of caverns along this coast.  The early Khoi people took up residence in some of these caves and lived off the land and the ocean, surviving mostly on the abundant shellfish.

The biggest and most prominent of about 15 caves in the Cape St Blaze area is the St Blaze Cave just below the Cape St Blaze Lighthouse.  In the past the cave was also referred to as Bat Cave as thousands of bats used to live in at.  Looking about on my visit I think all the human activity has chased off the bats to another cave in the area.  The cave is 12 meters deep, 22 meters at its mouth with a roof 10 meters high and and is a popular public view and whale watching point in the town.

In 1999 the caves in the area were selected for excavation as part of The Mossel Bay Archeology Project. The excavations were especially successful in St Blaze Cave and Cave PP13B. They revealed evidence that early man lived along the Southern Cape coast 164,000 years ago and made use of marine resources for food. 

Cape St Blaze Lighthouse

Although Mossel Bay has beautiful white beaches, the coastline from its western point onwards is a rugged and dangerous one.  A lighthouse was erected on top of Cape St Blaze in 1864 and until recently was one of only two lighthouses on the South African coastline manned 24 hours a day.

Until the late 1970s a clockwork system was used to turn the lens of the light.  This required a light keeper to climb up the tower and wind it up every three hours!  Today all the navigational aids and joining plant are fully automated, but a senior light keeper and two light keepers are still employed.  A constant radio watch is kept and the regular meteorological duties are also undertaken.

 The view from the Cape St Blaze Lighthouse across the bay and down to the Point is spectacular.  My panorama picture of the bay didn't come out very well, so I'm just posting a pic of the Point.

Info credit - Lighthouses.co.za

Tidal pool sunrise

The sunrise reflecting in the tidal pool at the Point in Mossel Bay

For more sunrises, sunsets and other pictures featuring the sky, visit Skywatch