Reading the travel book one page at a time - Tree lined lane

The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page - St Augustine

Very true words indeed.  But I also believe that while travelling you need to go off the beaten track every now and then as well otherwise you will just keep seeing what everybody else sees.  There really isn't anything wrong with that, it's just nice to see a little more sometimes as well.  And often it's something simple, like driving along this tree lined dirt road surrounded by citrus orchards between Addo and Kirkwood. 

Paddling on the Sundays River

The Sundays River Valley and Addo is synonymous with the Addo Elephant National Park and have never really been a holiday destination unless you went to visit the Addo Park.  But this has all changed.  The Addo area is about so much more than just elephants these days.  It has actually developed into a holiday destination all on its own.  Addo and its elephants are still the big attraction, but the area around the park has also turned into an adventure and activity mecca.  Zip lining, ferry cruises, sand boarding, quad biking, horse riding and more.  One of the more, and one that should be on your to do list, is Crisscross Adventures' Addo River Safari.  Some time ago, and I'm sorry but I uploaded the photos and never did the post, I got to join a number of journalists on a media trip with Chris Pickles and his team down the Sundays River. 

We got picked up from our guesthouse and transferred to the starting point where we got giver the obligatory safety briefing.  Life jackets got dished out to those who didn't feel that comfortable on the water and we were paired up for our journey down the Sundays.  My paddling partner was worried about not having paddled before, but Chris reassured us all that paddling experience wasn't a prerequisite to go on the trip.  Turned out her was right, obviously, as stretches of flat calm pools were narrower channels with faster flowing water.  Never did we see water even hinting at a thought of turning white so this really is for everybody.  Our three hour gentle paddle down the Sundays River was one of beautiful scenery, sightings of birds, flowers, plants and even a water monitor dashing off into the reeds at our approach.

Two thirds along the way we stopped for refreshments and a walk up to a lookout spot over the surrounding valley with the river below while Chris showed us a couple of plants and told us some of the area's history.  From here we were back in the water for the last stretch down the river to the pickup point.

The river safari really is for anybody who enjoys the outdoors and is keen to do something new.  The canoes are like flight deck ships and won't capsize.  The only difference though is that these canoes are easier to control and handle than a ship loaded with war planes. Other than being splashed by you and your partner's paddles, you won't get wet, but the canoes do have water tight container for you to put your camera in if you want to take one. Photo opportunities there are lots.  Just a pity I was to slow to get my camera out for the water monitor.

Disclosure: I got to go on the Addo River Safari courtesy of Crisscross Adventures.  I received no further remuneration, wasn't asked to write a positive post and keep full editorial control.

A classy day at the Jazzy Boozy Cheezy Affaire

Anybody blindfolded and flown around the country before being dropped off at the Jazzy Boozy Cheezy Affaire would have been excused if they guessed their destination to be somewhere in the Cape Winelands after seeing what was around them.  They would have been very wrong though.  The JBC wasn't taking place in the Cape Wineland.  Far from it.  It took place just outside Addo at Africanos Country Estate in the Sundays River Valley of the Eastern Cape.

The JBC Affaire wasn't just another event with music and stalls.  It was something slightly different and brought to the Sundays River Valley some of the Western Cape's top wine estates, specialty food stalls ranging from cheese and cold meats to olives, oysters, chocolate and biltong as well as a craft brewer and PE coffee roasters Mastertons.  These were all  bound together with live jazz performances on stage and the most amazing food, flower and fragrance pairing demonstration.

The Damselfly and I left the KidZ with friends and headed out into the Addo countryside nice and early on a perfect spring Saturday morning.  The beauty of the valley this time of year is the striking fragrance of citrus blossoms in the air and one just can't help but to pull over and suck in lungs full of it.  We arrived at Africanos just after the doors opened and before the crowds started coming in which gave me a chance to have a look at all the food stalls and take some pics.

The wine section of an event like this is always a huge attraction and the glass we received at the door came in very handy when wanting to taste some of the wines on offer.  Wine estates on offer included Calitzdorp Cellar, Ken Forrester, Simonsig, Beyerskloof, Cape Point Vineyards, La Motte and a couple more so there was something for everybody.

The program on stage started at 10 am with a different band going on every hour.  While we were there there were some excellent performances by Khanyiso, the John Edwards Trio and Cosa Nostra with a few more that we didn't get to see.  I'm not one who can sit and listen to Jazz all the time but the music on stage was the perfect backdrop for enjoying the food and wine on offer.  I even caught myself bobbing along with the beat at one stage.

As I have said already, there was really something for every taste on offer at the JBC.  Claus the Cheeseman from Knysna had a great variety of cheeses, cold meats, salami and artisan breads while those who like their meat dried could pop by Kirkwood's Famous Karoo Butchery's stand.

People went to the Laharna stand to try their olives, chillies, sundried tomatoes and herbs and most enjoyed it so much that they came away with tubs of olives and other goodies.

The Sundays River Valley is famous for elephants and oranges and oysters couldn't be further removed from what the area has to offer, but oysters turned out to be one of the most popular treats at the JBC.  I always thought that the first dude to dare throw a raw oyster down his throat must either have been very hungry, very stupid or very brave.  He must have known something cause as we know oysters are regarded a delicacy by many today.  Some even believe it to be an aphrodisiac.  Whatever you think, the Oyster Bar did a roaring trade of both the traditional raw oysters as well as a yummy deep fried one that I got to try. 

The coffee and chocolate lovers wouldn't have felt left out with what was on offer.  Sjukla's hand-made Belgium chocolates are delectable, especially those with a hint of citrus in them.  Right next to their stand Mastertons' barista was waving his magic coffee wand for those in need of a caffeine fix or some chocolate covered coffee beans.

Not everybody are into wine, but the organisers had thought of that as well.  They also had craft beer on tap brought to the valley by the Dragon Brewing Co as well as craft ciders by Everson's.

The highlight of the JBC, for us anyways, was the Neroli Fragrance Experience which involved food, flower and fragrance pairing during an interactive session in the Africanos hall.  The food bit was done by South African TV and Kokkedoor chef Mynhardt Joubert...  

 ... while the flower arrangements were done by PE based German Master Floral-Designer Fayette Scherwinski who is a floral magician. 

Flowers decorations and topped up glasses were the order of the day

The one hour session, done at 11 am and 2 pm on both days, didn't just involve us sitting and watching a cooking and flower demonstration.  It involved interaction as well where all six senses with us getting to see, touch, taste and smell the food, flowers and perfumes; and of cause listening to the experts.

While the demonstrations were on the ladies were encouraged to try out the DKNY scents on display while one lucky lady from the audience also got to have a makeover.  Wine glasses got topped up and taste buds were tantalised.  Some of the delicacies Mynhardt and his assistant dished up was an instant meringue with citrus rind, a quick sticks cheesecake with lavender flowers in it and various spreads and dips (sorry, but at a loss for a proper description for it) that went with the proper meringues and fresh fruit that also went onto the table.

One of Fayette's table decorations

Once the food and flower demonstration was done the final products were used to set the table in the middle of the hall.  It wasn't just a case of dishing everything up on plates.  It goes straight onto the table. 

Then it was our turn and spoons were dished out - excuse the pun - and we were invited to tuck in straight from the table.  We were encouraged to try different combinations and to even try some of the flower petals with the food.  Truly a very unique experience and very well presented.

All in all the Jazzy Boozy Cheezy Affaire was an absolute breath of fresh air.  There are a lot of artisans and country markets all over the show these days, but there is definitely a market out there for something like this.  Something a little more sophisticated combining good food, wine and music in a controlled environment.  When I first heard about the JBC, I have to admit, I had my doubts.  Those doubts vanished like mist in front of the sun after visiting and seeing what they had to offer and I am sure that next year will be even bigger and better.

Disclosure: We received tickets to visit the Jazzy Boozy Cheezy Affaire from the organisers  and visited on the first day of the event.  Our transport and all other costs were for our own account.  

Weekend time is braai time

We are so fortunate in South Africa that we can braai with coals created from burning wood.  In so many countries you aren't allowed to braai on an open fire and if you are a real braaier then you would agree that a braai on gas just isn't a braai.  It's also so much more than just a braai.  It's about the socializing around the fire.  Enjoying a drink and a chat with friends and family while the fire is crackling away.  Getting the fire going again afterwards for a lekker kuier fire or to just sit and stare into.  Plus a wood fire makes the best braai because it gives the meat that extra bit of flavor.  It is weekend time... Braai time.

Camping and canoeing at sunset

You know your kids are enjoying a camping trip and perfect weather when they're still out on the water after sunset.  The picture is from a recent camping trip to Sitrusoewer on the banks of the Sundays River outside Kirkwood. 

Kinkelbos roadworks sunset

 

Driving back from East London to Port Elizabeth last week I got stuck at the road works between Kinkelbos and Colchester.  I don't allow road works to faze me anymore and always get out, lean against the car and enjoy whatever scenery there is.  This time around the sun was setting in the west with some spectacular clouds and I grabbed my camera for a quick stop-go roadside photo shoot.  You should have seen the sky 10 minutes later as I came down the hill into Colchester with the Sundays River in the foreground.  Unfortunately by then the camera was packed away and there was nowhere to pull over with it only being one lane. Next time.

The Sir Percy FitzPatrick Lookout in Sunland

Sir Percy FitzPatrick, (24 July 1862 – 24 January 1931) is probably best known for writing the book Jock of the Bushveld, but also played a big role in the early development of the Sundays River Valley.  In his younger years he was involved in gold and diamond prospecting in Mpumalanga where Jock of the Bushveld also plays off.   In 1895 FitzPatrick became the secretary of the Reform Committee in Johannesburg which conspired to overthrow Paul Kruger's South African Republic.

 At the outbreak of the Anglo-Boer War (1899–1902) FitzPatrick helped to establish the Imperial Light Horse Regiment but was prevented from active service by ill health.  He was knighted in 1902 as a Knight Commander of the Order of Saint Michael and Saint George.  He served as one of eight Transvaal representatives in the national convention of 1908–9, where four British colonies were consolidated into the Union of South Africa and went on to serve as a member of the parliament of the Union of South Africa.

After coming to the Sundays River Valley he established the Sundays River Settlement Company which encouraged people to settle in this area.  He also played a very big role in the establishment of the citrus industry in the valley and the amazing irrigation system of this area was his brain child.  His idea was to channel water from the Orange River, six hundred kilometres away from Sunland, into this arid area thus enabling agriculture to flourish here, as it does today, providing employment for the many local people.

 

FitzPatrick bought a piece of land next to the river from where his guests could enjoy the stunning view of the surrounding valley.  He even had a lookout platform built on the land where visitors can still go to marvel at the view.  After his death he was buried at The Lookout where he's wife is buried alongside him.  The Lookout and the surrounding land was donated as a public space my his daughter and son-in-law in 1953 and the site was declared a National Monument. 

Ziplining in Addo on the longest double zipline in Africa

The first thing people think of when they hear the name Addo is elephants.  On that front the Addo Elephant National Park is doing an awesome job attracting people to the Sundays River Valley.  But the Addo area is so much more than elephants and the rest of the big 5.  More than just animals for that matter.  The whole Sundays River Valley is a beautiful area with scenic drives and views, history, great eateries and a wide variety of accommodation and activities.  The new kid on the block is what everybody in the valley is talking about at the moment though.  Adrenalin Addo officially opened on 1 September and offers the longest double zipline in Africa.  A whole 500 meters long, up to 60 meters high and I got to try it on an educational organised by the guys from Addo Tourism.

Arriving at Adrenalin Addo in Sunland between Addo and Kirkwood, the first thing one notice is the platform up on the hill across the river.  That and the stunning surroundings with the Sundays River flowing in front of their centre, subtropical ticket on the hillside and citrus orchards all around.  While I waited for my fellow adventurers to arrive I enjoyed the view from the deck with a quick coffee to calm the early nerves.  Looking up I thought to myself that it looked seriously high but as a seasoned zipliner (or at least I would like to think so) I wasn't going to allow that to stop me from doing it.  Once the others arrived we got kitted out in our gear and we were ready to go.  First up though was crossing the Sundays River on a raft.  Coming back we would be flying overhead.  The guides conduct a bit of a tour on the way to the top pointing out plants, fossils and the remains of the first irrigation channels.

Once we arrived at the top and climbed the platform I suddenly realized how high it really was and my fear of heights seriously kicked in. My fear took a back seat though when I started to look around. WOW! Looking down on the valley with all its farms and the Sundays River flowing through it is truly stunning.  We had seven in our group so the first three pairs went together with one solo zipliner coming last.  After watching the first two pairs go it was my turn.  I had Yvonne from Addo Tourism on my left and we were pumped.  As the guides hooked us up they explained what they were doing.  Two clips on the wheels (sorry, I have no idea what the proper word for this is) and a backup line behind us.  Step off the bench and... 3... 2... 1... GO!  

Stepping off and letting go was heart in throat time for me but once you are off and going all the fear is gone.  What an absolutely amazing sensation and something very hard to explain.  From start to finish the zipline takes about 30 seconds or so and once you hit the automatic brake at the end you just want to go again.  I've been playing around with video clips on my camera lately and has started to experiment with a video editor on my laptop.  This was such a great experience that I couldn't help but to throw something together for this post.

 

Adrenalin Addo is situated about 15 minutes from the Addo Elephant National Park and a great add on for visitors to the park either leaving on the way back to Port Elizabeth or as a break before heading back into the park.  They're also going to offer light meals some time soon so it would be a great lunch and zipline stop while on tour as well.  Other activities offered are a giant swing (which I didn't get to do this time around) and canoeing on the Sundays River.

 

Disclosure: I enjoyed this visit as a guest of Ryan and his team at Adrenalin Addo, organized by Yvonne of Addo Tourism and the team at ECTOUR.  I received no further remuneration, wasn't asked to write a positive post and keep full editorial control.

Farmland island

I spotted this scene from the Sir Percy Fitzpatrick Lookout near Sunland between Addo and Kirkwood.  While taking in the magnificent view I spotted a green patch in the middle of a couple of ploughed fields.  On closer inspection I noticed that there was a farm worker's house and a couple of trees on it.  Very peculiar to find a green island like this in the middle of a ploughed field.

The view from Kirkwood Lookout

On Friday I took part in the Skäl Nelson Mandela Bay's annual Tourism Amazing Race.  This year it took place in the beautiful Sundays River Valley north of Port Elizabeth.  I purposely left my camera behind as the team I was in went all out to defend our title from last year.  In the end we came in first but due to a 5min penalty got relegated to second.  Just to show how competitive the race between the top teams were its important to mention that the third team only came in 30 minutes later.  During the race we got to visit a number of interesting and historic places around the valley and I was kinda sorry that, firstly, I didn't have my camera and, secondly, I didn't have time to really take in all the places we went to.  I really need to take a day or two to go and explore.

 

I do have two photos of the valley that I took from Lookout at Kirkwood when we were up there for the Kirkwood Wildsfees.  The valley is mostly an agricultural area with citrus being farmed.  Because of its close proximity to the Addo Elephant National Park there is a lot of guest lodges in the area and perhaps one of them read this post and invites me for a couple of nights to come and experience the valley a bit more. *nudge* *nudge* *wink* *wink*

Flowers by the Sundays River

Yellow wild flowers growing along the Sundays River outside Port Elizabeth

Mackay Bridge

I have always known of the old Mackay Bridge in Colchester just outside Port Elizabeth, but I have never actually gone to it to have a look. A little while ago we had the absolute pleasure to spend a night at the awesome Elephants Footprint Lodge right next to the bridge, and took a walk to it just before sunset to have a look (and obviously take a couple of pics).

The Colchester area was a very busy spot the mid 1800s and early 1900s, as it had the only pont over the Sundays River on the main road between Port Elizabeth and Grahamstown. The original pont was washed away in 1874 and a second one in 1875. A bridge was commissioned in 1884 and opened on 5th March 1895. It was called the Mackay Bridge, in honour of John Mackay who's efforts resulted in its construction.
This bridge was constructed entirely of steel and iron brought all the way from Sheffield in England. Due to the elements taking its toll on it, the road across the bridge was closed to traffic a couple of years ago although it can still be accessed on foot.

Sundays River sunset

A couple of guys fishing at sunset on the Sundays River just outside Port Elizabeth.

If you want to see more sunsets and other sky related pictures, visit Skywatch.

Elephants Footprint Lodge

This last weekend we needed to get away, so we dropped the Rugrats at the in-laws and headed out to Addo Elephant National Park. We drove through the park and spent the night at the four star Elephants Footprint Lodge in Colchester. The thatched lodge is ideally situated just outside the park's southern gate and a super spot to spend a couple of days while exploring the park and area.

The lodge has 12 magnificent suites to relax in. The suites are so big that you won't be bumping into your partner (unless you want to) when you move from one end to the other, while the baths are big enough to have a water polo game in. There is even an (private) outside shower for those who like that kind of thing.

After a hot day in the Addo Elephant National Park there is nothing as soothing as washing off the dust and cooling down in the rock feature pool at the lodge. This we followed up with a romantic sunset walk over the historic Mackey Bridge spanning the Sundays River next door to the lodge.

We kept the best for last. The Cooking Monster, also know as owner Geoff Applewhite, runs a restaurant from the lodge with a menu that includes kudu and ostrich steak as well as a wide variety of other dishes. We both settled for Geoff's 300 gram rump steaks served with chips and salad. The Damselfly followed it up with cheesecake and I had pancakes with apple and cinnamon. The food was so good, I nearly chewed my lips off. Elephants Footprint Lodge comes highly recommended.

Dusk on the river bank

The Sundays River at dusk taken from the ferry jetty at Sundays River Backpackers

In the wake ...

Everybody (well I hope everybody) knows that South Africa will be hosting the FIFA Soccer World Cup in 2010. In the 4 years preceding the World Cup, the host country hosts SoccerEx. It is an exhibition covering every aspect of soccer. SoccerEx is being hosted in Sandton, Johannesburg from Monday 24 November 2008 - Wednesday 26 November. The organisation I work for is an sharing exhibitor at this year's SoccerEx and our CEO was supposed to go. Late on Friday afternoon he found out that there will be something requiring his attention early in the week and the responsibility of representing our organisation fell on my shoulders. IN THE WAKE (excuse the pun) of this I won't be able to do posts for the next two or three days, but I will definitively be back on Thursday. The wake above was taken behind the Sundays River Ferry while on the way to the Colchester dunes.

The Colchester Dunefields

The village of Colchester is nestled on the banks of the Sundays River, about 35km outside Port Elizabeth. Starting at Colchester (west of the Sundays River Mouth) heading east is the Alexandria Dunefields. These are reputed to be the largest coastal dune field in the Southern Hemisphere and the second largest in the world. The western part is locally known as the Colchester Dunefields and can only be reached with a boat by cruising down the river and landing on the banks close to the river mouth.

For the public the easiest way to get there is by taking a pleasure cruise on the Sundays River Ferry with my friends Les and Maggie. They will take visitors down the river telling them of the history of the area and pointing out interesting facts along the way. The river is also a very good bird watching area with a very wide variety of birds occurring along it's banks.



The land the ferry about a kilometer upstream from the river mouth from where passengers can disembark and start up the dunes. The first section is a very steep climb up the first dune.




From there it is a constant climb up and down the dunes to get to the top of the highest dune. From here there is a great view across this section of the dune fields, to the river mouth and across the bay to Port Elizabeth. The land across the river is part of the new section of the Addo Elephant National Park. The hope is that this section will be fenced and hopefully in a couple of years elephants will be roaming along that section of the dunes.

A good idea is take take a couple of boards along to slide down the dunes or if, like us, you don't just run down at full tap and hope you don't buy a piece of dune on the way down. This is an awesome experience and our Chinese delegation said that the visit to the ferry and sand dunes was one of the highlights of their visit to Port Elizabeth.

This was my second trip on the ferry. On my first visit to the dunes I took a picture of a "snail graveyard" between the dunes.