An Express Holiday In(n) Umhlanga

Everybody knows I like to explore and in South Africa we really have so much to discover.  So when an invitation to visit Umhlanga and bring the Damselfly along came from the Holiday Inn Express Umhlanga, I jumped at the chance to see a new place and share it with my wife.  With two nights in the hotel it meant that we had a whole day to explore the coast around Umhlanga Rocks on foot and really take in what this very popular beach destination has to offer.

Waking up Saturday morning we were met with a gale force wind when we opened our hotel room balcony door.  "Oh no!"  Not the ideal beach weather but nothing short of a hurricane would have stopped us getting out there to see what there was to see.  We grabbed a taxi from the hotel and he dropped us off behind the Breakers Resort which is the last hotel on Lagoon Drive on the northern side of town.  From there we followed a short path down to the beach and hit the sand.  Or more like the sand hit us, but the wind was from behind and our sails were set.

Our first Umhlanga destination waited for us a few hundred meters up the beach.  The beautiful Umhlanga Lagoon.  Umhlanga is a Zulu work which means "place of reeds" and the river and lagoon is definitely where the name originated.  Umhlanga Lagoon isn't just a stunning scenic spot, it's also a well known... erm... come closer... *whispering* unofficial nudist beach.  Yes you heard me, don't pretend like you didn't sit up when I said it.  Or rather you read it.  So just to repeat myself quickly in case you didn't, Umhlanga Lagoon is a nudist beach.  Something I found out a few years ago when I got curious about the state of naturism in South Africa and did a little bit of research.  I wasn't expecting many nudists to be hanging around (excuse the pun) with the gale force wind as you won't just end up with sand in every possible crevice, but also have the skin sandblasted off your... Ja, you get what I mean.  I have to add though that there was a guy who arrived just before us and when he reappeared from behind the dune he was wearing his birthday suit.  It didn't last long though as he was heading back fully clothed before we even turned around.  I'm sure he's still trying to rinse sand out everywhere. 

We weren't keen to walk back along the coast right into the wind so veered off the beach and onto the trails leading through the adjacent Umhlanga Lagoon Nature Reserve.  The reserve covers 26 hectares from the end of Lagoon Drive up to and including the lagoon and river mouth.  As soon as we hit the trails it was as if the wind had just died on us.  Totally sheltered we took a leisurely stroll back towards Umhlanga Rocks along one of the paths, passing a few other people along the way.  Clearly this is a very popular spot for a walk for young and old looking to break away to nature close to civilization.

At Breakers we left the trail and followed the beachfront walkway between the buildings and the beach.  Still fairly sheltered against the wind it was a nice refreshing walk with a lot of restaurant options to get something to eat, vendors to buy something from to take back home as a gift and sea views.  Lots and lots of sea views.  It's not difficult to see why Umhlanga is such a popular destination.  We walked as far down as the iconic Umhlanga Lighthouse, built in 1954.  The circular concrete tower, painted white with a red band at the top, stands 21m high and must be one of the most recognised lighthouses on the South African coastline.

A little backtrack from the lighthouse brought us to the Umhlanga pier with it's curved "ribs".  The interesting part about the pier is that there is a large underground box culvert used to take storm water down to the sea with the pier being built on top of the extension taking the water out to a deep water channel 80 meters from the beach.  The wind nearly took us even further out but we just had to take a walk down to the end of the pier to enjoy the view.  From here we headed away from the beach to go and find something to eat and wait for our taxi back up to the hotel.

Staying at the Holiday Inn Express on Umhlanga Ridge meant that we were literally two blocks away from the Gateway Shopping Centre and we took a walk up to the mall on the Saturday evening for dinner.  Gateway is more than just a little collection of shops under one roof with a huge amount of retail stores, entertainment and restaurants to pick and choose from.  After a little retail therapy and a look around the Wave House we found ourselves a spot to enjoy some good sushi and wine before moseying back to the hotel.  

Umhlanga has a wide range of accommodation options with the ones down on the coast being more expensive than those up on the ridge.  We stayed at the Holiday Inn Express Umhlanga (do go and read my review) and the fact that it wasn't right on the beach didn't effect our holiday at all.  In actual fact it's very nicely located to enjoy both the beachfront as well as the Gateway Shopping Centre, has great views, very spacious and comfortable rooms (mush more so than what I was expecting), always friendly staff and all in all a very good choice for an express holiday in Umhlanga.

Disclosure: We were invited for a weekend at the Holiday Inn Express Umhlanga by the InterContinental Hotels Group and they carried all the costs for the weekend.  They asked for a blog post to be written but had no editorial input in the content of the post. 

Butcher Block Umhlanga - the BEST steak I have ever had

I don't think there is anybody out there (except obviously vegetarians or vegans) who doesn't love a good steak.  Not everybody can make a good steak though.  I have tried many times and just can't get it right.  It's always either done to much or not enough and I think the Damselfly may even have given up on me finally producing her the perfect steak.  But there are those who CAN make the perfect steak and on my visit to Umhlanga recently I discovered just the place to enjoy it at.  Unfortunately it's just too far from home to do so on a regular basis.

The Butcher Block Restaurant is located on Umhlanga Ridge right next to the Holiday Inn Express Umhlanga where we were staying.  The nice part of staying at the Holiday Inn Express was that we could sign the bill to our room and only settle it along with the room bill on departure. 

We decided to indulge a bit and go for starters as well before tucking into the steaks.  The Damselfly loves mussels and I love cheese so she opted for the Mussel starter (Half shell mussels gently simmered with Chardonnay, garlic, mascarpone cheese and cream) while I went for the Camembert starter (Deep fried camembert cheese served with roasted almonds, fresh rocket, cranberry sauce and melba toast).  Great options on both instances.  Second tick for Butcher Block for the evening.  The first being the great service we received from the moment we walked in.  A greeting at the door, a greeting from a passing manager, a good table at the window and very attentive, brisk and extremely friendly service. 

Then it was time to select our steaks. With a great variety it wasn't easy though and we both probably changed our minds a couple of times while discussing the different options on the menu.  The Damselfly eventually settled (although settled probably isn't the word; more like excitedly chose) on the Camembert and Bacon sirloin steak (Steak with a delectable green peppercorn sauce topped with pan-fried bacon and Camembert cheese.  My choice fell on one of their specials for the evening, a Fillet steak stuffed with jalapeno peppers, cheddar and mozzarella wrapped in bacon with a paprika infused butter on top  When the steaks came we immediately knew we were in for a treat when we saw that they were flame grilled and cutting into them they were also done to perfection.  The Damselfly's medium rare and mine just over medium (so that a good vet can't save it anymore).  My better half also mentioned that the bacon on her steak definitely wasn't just catering grade beacon fried in a pan as it had a distinct smoked taste and flavour to it.  Both steaks came on very nicely presented plates and were served with chips. Steaks = tick number three and four.

My lovely wife having dessert

And talking of dessert.  Although we weren't really planning to have dessert after starters and mains, I decided to have a look at the menu anyway.  With the Damselfly only having ice cream and chocolate sauce I decided to be a little more adventurous and try something else.  I was torn between two options and hadn't even finished asking the waiter which he would recommend when he said the Kahlua and Ice Cream Crepes. (Ice cream rolled in light crepes, drizzled with hot Bar One sauce topped with roasted almond flakes)  I'm sure I could find somewhere to fit that in as well... Out came the plate with two pancakes filled with ice cream and accompanied by a shot of Kalua.  My eyes went big but it tasted so yummy that I made sure I found enough space for all of it. Fifth tick goes to the dessert giving them a full house for the evening.

The verdict at the end of the night? Butcher Block can really be highly recommended and served us probably the best steaks we have ever had anywhere.  And don't just take my word for it.  The next morning while waiting for our taxi to take us down to the beach we chatted to a British visitor who comes to the area at least once a year.  He asked us about our plans for the day and told us that we definitely had to try the restaurant (Butcher Block) next door as it had the best steaks he's ever had and he travels extensively.  So next time I'm in Durbs and feels like a steak I know where I will be going. 

Disclosure: We were invited for a weekend at the Holiday Inn Express Umhlanga by the InterContinental Hotels Group and they carried all the costs for the weekend.  They asked for a blog post to be written about the hotel itself but had no editorial input in the content of the post. This post I threw in extra as I can recommend the place with conviction.

"Surprise surprise" at Holiday Inn Express Umhlanga

"How about a weekend in Umhlanga with the Damselfly?" So the email I received from the InterContinental Hotels Group didn't quite say that, but it could just as well have.  A weekend at any of their South African hotels and I got to choose which one.  I could have chosen the luxury Intercontinental Johannesburg Sandton Towers or any of their other hotels in Jozi, Cape Town and Pretoria, but we decided on the Holiday Inn Express in Umhlanga.  Firstly because of the destination and secondly because I have never stayed in a Holiday Inn Express before and wanted to know what it was like.  And disappointed we definitely weren't.  

We got picked up at the King Shaka International Airport, got delivered to the hotel's front door and from the moment we walked in it was smiles and great service all the way.  The ladies at reception welcomed us with open arms and checked us in while asking about our flight and if we had been to Umhlanga before.  In no time all the necessary admin was done while we were also signed up for the IHG Rewards program.  Not just do they offer great benefits to regular guests, but you also get additional Wi-Fi vouchers which meant we could connect both our phones and the laptop to upload photos over the weekend.  After a quick chat to the hotel manager who came past while we were busy it was time to go and check out the room.

I don't know why but I always had an impression that the Holiday Inn Express was some kind of budget hotel where you have to push yourself flat against the wall when you're partner wanted to pass you or where you had to stand on the toilet to be able to close the bathroom door.  It was anything but.  We had a spacious room waiting for us with, big enough to also have a couch next to the bed (not that I needed it over the weekend being in the Damselfly's good books and all), a coffee making station and a bathroom bigger than what I always imagined the rooms were.  What a surprise!  Just shows when you have ignorant preconceived perceptions about places.  Not just did we have a big room but also one with a sea view and a balcony. Ha! VIP treatment bonus.  Unfortunately the PE wind followed us to Durbs so we didn't spend a lot of time out on the balcony though. 

Umhlanga is divided into two areas.  Umhlanga Beach and Umhlanga Ridge.  The hotel is located up on the edge of the ridge which means that you're not quite on the beach itself, but rather about a kilometer or two up the road.  It does mean that the hotel has a killer view of Umhlanga Rocks below as well as the whole coastline all the way to Durban.  It also means that it's a lot cheaper than the ultra expensive hotels right on the Umhlanga beach (making this no ministerial R11 000 a night visit), making it a lot more affordable to visit this popular coastal destination.  What really counts in your favour as well is that the hotel has a local taxi company they use with whom you can bill your taxi fare back to your room.  It means you can head down to the beach for a walk and leave your wallet in the hotel safe. 

Breakfast, included in the room rate, is served in the Great Room and includes the full buffet offer of hot and cold options with coffee and muffins available if you just want a quick snack before heading off to an early meeting or the airport.  The first of our two evenings at the hotel we decided to have dinner at the Butcher Block next door.  I'm purposely not posting anything about it because I'm doing a totally separate post about it.  Why? Because we probably had the best steaks we have ever had.  EVER. Another bonus is that you can also bill this back to your room. 

As we flew into Durban and didn't have a car, we were worried that we may get stuck at the hotel or will have to take a taxi every time we wanted to go anywhere.  Other than taking the taxi down to the beach and back, we actually ended up not needing any transport.  Gateway Shopping Centre is literally 5 minutes' walk from the hotel and other than crossing one road it's just about a walk in the park.  Except you're walking on a sidewalk.  We popped up there for a few things Friday afternoon, dinner on Saturday and then again to check out the Sunday market nearby.  If the weather played along we would have spent some time next to the hotel's pool as well, but the wind was horrible.  Not the hotel's fault though.  Actually, the pool is quite sheltered but it was a little too chilly to take my shirt off, not to mention going in the water.

All in all the weekend was a rather pleasant surprise.  Not just did the Damselfly get to visit Umhlanga for the first time, I actually got reminded, as mentioned before, that preconceived ideas about a place can be very wrong.  In this case we got a huge surprise in both the quality and well as the substance of the Holiday Inn Express brand of hotels.  Sponsored trip or not, I can definitely recommend the Holiday Inn Express hotels for anybody looking for something just below the top of the range type places with what the hotel didn't have in luxury it definitely made up for in friendliness, service and location.

Disclosure: We were invited for a weekend at the Holiday Inn Express Umhlanga by the InterContinental Hotels Group and they carried all the costs for the weekend.  They asked for a blog post to be written but had no editorial input in the content of the post. 

My Old Fort adventure in Durban

I get to visit Durban once a year during the annual Tourism Indaba but other than stopping in Umhlanga and taking walks on the beachfront, I've never really had an opportunity to explore the city much.  This year I decided to pinch off an hour to explore and discover at least one new place and the choice fell on The Old Fort.  From outside the place didn't look like much but I pressed on and in and was pleasantly surprised by what I found.  When the Dutch arrived in the small settlement of Durban in 1842 the British weren't too impressed to see the Dutch flag flying at the Point.  A armed force of a few hundred were sent to the settlement to sort the Dutch out and was surprised by some stern resistance.  After having to retreat back to the camp Dick King set off on his famous overland horse ride to Grahamstown to fetch reinforcements.

The camp didn't really provide the British with much shelter and during a 24-hour truce called to bury the their dead, the British moved quickly to strengthen it.  Sixty wagons was pulled in a circle around the tented camp and a trench dug around the perimeter.  The excavated soil was used to build up a mount in front with parts of the trench and mount still visible today.  During the siege the Boers shot 651 cannon balls and thousands of bullets at the British.  Many of the cannon balls were dug up and reused after having been fired at them by the Brits.

 

. The battle went on for a whole five weeks until it was finally ended with the arrival of two British ships, a schooner called the Conch, and the Royal Navy’s frigate HMS Southampton, with reinforcements.  Dick King had succeeded.  The Dutch were sent packing as far back as Cowies Hill and the rebellion was over.  The British was back in full control of Natal.

 

The Old Fort was continuously used as barracks until 1897 and today it's an open air museum of sorts.  The old magazine building has been converted into a chapel while aged military veterans live in rooms that used to be the military barracks.  The gardens that can be found through out the fort complex is littered with historical and interesting items, amongst them a bench made from timber of HMS Southampton, a cannon recovered from the wreck of the Grosvener (1782), and plaques commemorating the heroic journeys of John Ross and Dick King.  The South African Heavy Artillery Memorial can also be found in the fort's gardens.

 

Before I knew it my hour was over and I had to get back to what brought me to Durban in the first place.  Perhaps in the future I will get other opportunities to explore the city and expand my knowledge of the city a little more.

South African Heavy Artillery Memorial in Durban

I wouldn't really call war memorials a specific interest on my side, but I really enjoy discovering historic sites and attractions.  Just about every city and town in South Africa has a war memorial of some sort and Durban is no different.  Usually cities have a number of war related memorials and the first one I found in Durban was the city's South African Heavy Artillery Memorial, one of six around South Africa. 

 

After the end of World War I the Imperial Government presented 6 howitzer guns to the Union of South Africa.  The guns were used by the South African Heavy Artillery Association to honour their fallen Comrades-in-Arms and the six South African Heavy Artillery Memorials were created.  The six memorials can be found in the following places:

• Johannesburg Zoo - Memorial to 71st (Transvaal) Siege Battery
• Clyde N Terry Museum in Kimberley - 72nd (Griqualand West) Siege Battery
• Company Gardens in Cape Town - 73rd (Cape) Siege Battery
• National Museum in Bloemfontein - 74th (Eastern Province) Siege Battery
• Union Buildings in Pretoria - 125th (Transvaal) Siege Battery)
• Warriors' Gate MOTH Shellhole in Old Fort Road, Durban - 75th (Natal) Siege Battery

#Iam4rhinos

 

I can't think that there are many people out there who doesn't know about the plight of the rhino yet 618 rhino has been killed by poachers in South Africa this year so far to satisfy the demand for rhino horn in the East.  At this rate rhino could disappear of the face of this earth before I have grandchildren one day and posts like this would only be possible with old photos or ones like this rhino conservation piece outside the Durban ICC.  In 2010 the WWF South Africa established World Rhino Day to take places annually on 22 September to focus on raising awareness on the increased threat of rhino poaching and the illegal trade in rhino horn. The day has become a global phenomenon and gives concerned citizens the opportunity to stand up for rhino conservation.  This year the campaign was taken another step up with the appeal to Twitter users to use the hash tag #iam4rhinos and get 1 000 000 tweets for rhino conservation.  As I'm typing this the number is standing on 130 336 130 341 130 357 130 400 and counting.  Keep track of the campaign on #Iam4rhinos.

The idea for the bronze rhino outside the Durban ICC was born during the planning of the Fifth World Parks Congress which took place in the city in 2003.  The rhino is installed on a plinth with the following inscription:  "The White Rhinoceros" This dramatic and powerful animal is a symbol of the contribution made to SOUTH AFRICA by BIODIVERSITY CONSERVATION the endeavours of which have led to the RESTORATION OF OUR WILDLIFE HERITAGE and A MASSIVE CONTRIBUTION TO THE ECONOMIC GROWTH OF SOUTH AFRICA. It also celebrates the holding of the Fifth World Parks Congress at the Durban ICC, September 2003. Commissioned by THE CONSERVATION TRUST".

Zulu warrior figures

The figures of two fighting Zulu warriors in the main entrance of the

Sibaya Entertainment Kingdom outside Durban

Umhlanga Pier

Many visitors to the beachfront at Umhlanga Rocks take a walk onto the 80 meter long Umhlanga Pier to enjoy the view of the coastline and the Umhlanga Lighthouse close by.  What many of these visitors don't know though is that the pier was actually built to assist with the dispersal of storm water into the sea.  Before the pier was built storm water used to be discharged onto the beach at Granny's Pool.  A large underground box culvert was constructed from Lagoon Drive and the pier is a continuation of the culvert, taking the water directly into the sea.

Umhlanga Lighthouse

The 21 meter tall red and white Umhlanga Lighthouse is probably the best known lighthouse on the KwaZulu Natal coastline.  Umhlanga Rocks is situated on what was originally part of the sugar estate of Sir Marshall Campbell and means Place of Reeds in the Zulu language.  This refers to the beds of reeds that accumulate on the banks of the Ohlanga River a few kilometres north of town.  Incidentally Sir Marshall was also the person who introduced the colourful rickshaws to Durban's beachfront.  When a track was made from Mount Edgercombe to Umhlanga Rocks, the area became popular with local farmers who leased small plots on the shoreline to built vacation cottages.  From there it developed into the popular seaside resort it is today.

 

The lighthouse was completed in 1954 and replaced the Bluff Lighthouse, which was commissioned in 1869 but had to be abandoned due to its rapid deterioration.  The flashing light is a welcome sight to ships sailing into the safety of the Durban harbour.  Except for its main light its also has a fixed red light that enables ships waiting to anchor in the outer anchorage to monitor their position. If the red light can be seen, it suggests the ships' anchors have probably dragged and is too close to shore.  The Oyster Box Hotel, which was built in 1869 and was originally the first beach cottage in the area, has been the lighthouse's official warden right from the start and the lighthouse controls are in the hotel office where staff monitor the controls and report to Portnet's Lighthouse Service.

Sibaya Entertainment Kingdom

Driving from the uShaka International Airport to Durban along the coastal (Umhlanga) road, the African themed Sibaya Casino and Entertainment Kingdom is visible on the hillside.  I didn't have time to look around the casino but did take a drive up to the entrance before I had to be on my way again.  There are some beautiful coastal views from up there.  Sibaya is one of two licenced casinos in Durban and if you do decided to visit it, gamble responsibly.

Tourism Indaba 2013

I want to share a couple of scenes from the recent Indaba with you, but first a quick generic explanation to those who don't know what Indaba is.  Tourism Indaba, hosted by South African Tourism, is an annual tourism trade show that takes place in Durban in early May.  Indaba is the biggest tourism trade show on the African continent and one of the top three internationally and brings together product and destinations with buyers from all over the world.  But Indaba is so much more than an exhibition.  It also includes speed marketing sessions, workshops, launches, awards, functions and lots of technology.  This year SA Tourism launched their #MeetSouthAfrica campaign just before Indaba with 15 international bloggers travelling all over South Africa blogging, Facbooking, Tweeting and Instagramming about their experiences.  This was followed by a travel bloggers conference on the day before Indaba where some of the bloggers told delegates more about how bloggers can benefit tourism products and destinations and obviously about their trip.  

 

Delegates received a warm South African welcome at the airport as well as entering the Durban ICC

The exhibition space is split between the Durban International Convention Centre and the Durban Exhibition Centre as well as outside exhibitors in between

 

 The Nelson Mandela Bay Tourism (seeing that I don't blog for a living I need to earn my daily bread somewhere) stand with my colleague Seekoei (the name he goes by online) manning the front desk

 



On the left a delegate is trying out the interactive video wall on the SA Tourism stand while on the right is a chalk drawing outside the Heritage and Cultural Pavilion

 

Sand sculptures done between the ICC and DEC

The Heritage and Cultural Pavilion was a new (and popular) addition to Indaba 2013 and showcased some of the country's top heritage and cultural attractions.  Although there were brochures available, all the information was on display on iPads on the wall as well as through Poken scanners. 

South Beach sunrise

Sunrise over Durban's South Beach

Hazy Durban sunrise

I was enjoying the slightly hazy sunrise in Durban when I noticed a ship approaching through the haze on its way to the harbour.

Durban beachfront panorama

Yet again I spent nearly a week in Durban for Tourism Indaba with very little time to get out and take a couple of photos.  I did get to take a walk along the beachfront at South Beach on the morning of my departure and managed this panorama shot from one of the piers.  Click on the picture to see the enlarged version.

Durban Sonopkoms

Die begin van nog 'n pragtige dag in Afrika. 

Ek het hierdie foto van die son wat oor Suidstrand opkom geneem uit my 9de verdieping hotelkamer gedurende die onlangse Indaba uitstalling in Durban . 

Umhlanga Lighthouse

The popular seaside resort area of Umhlanga Rocks is situated just north of Durban. Standing proudly on Umhlanga beach is the Umhlanga Lighthouse which has been subject of numerous paintings and memorabilia over the years. Completed in 1954, the lighthouse was built to replace the Bluff lighthouse, which was commissioned in 1869 but had to be abandoned due to its rapid deterioration.

The Umhlanga Lighthouse was built in front of the Oyster Box Hotel and has never had a keeper as the hotel had been the official warden.

Dolphins at uShaka

I write this post with apologies to Naialani the Island Girl who likes to swim with her wild dolphins in Hawaii. Since the dolphins here in Bayworld in Port Elizabeth moved to Hong Kong a year ago, the only place in South Africa where you can view a dolphin presentation in captivity is at uShaka Marine World in Durban. As much as dolphins should be free out in the big blue sea, dolphins in captivity does play a big role in educating and informing people, and in particular kids, about these wonderful mammals. Please, before anybody has a go at me for advocating keeping dolphins in captivity, I'm not. I would much rather be swimming with them in the wild like Naialani does.

One of the main features at uShaka Marine World is the Phantom Ship which includes the main aquarium viewing areas as well as a couple of restaurants.

Durban skyline

The skyline of the coastal city of Durban in KwaZulu Natal. Most of the skyline is dominated by hotels as the city is a popular coastal playground in summer. After South Africa's successful hosting of the 2010 FIFA World Cup, the word on the street is that Durban is going to bid to host the Olympic Games either in 2020 and 2024.

Tongue in cheek footnote: I still personally much rather prefer my home town of Port Elizabeth as a beautiful, scenic, clean and safe coastal destination *smiley face*

Durban Stadium

Last week on my trip to Durban I got to visit and tour the new Moses Mabhida Stadium. The 70,000 seater (54,000 seater after the World Cup) stadium’s iconic design has made it one of the most admired of the 2010 FIFA World Cup stadia and has created an unmistakable silhouette on the Durban skyline.

The stadium's most unique feature is its 106m high grand arch. It represented the unity of a sport-loving nation and was inspired by the South African flag. The two legs of the arch on the southern side of the stadium, come together to form a single footing on the northern side, symbolizing the uniting of a once-divided nation. The arch isn't just feature. It has a cable car which takes visitors up to its highest point from where they can get out and enjoy breathtaking, panoramic views of the city and ocean. Unfortunately on our visit there wasn't time to do the trip as the bus was waiting for us.


The roof is made of 46,000m2 of Teflon-coated glass fibre membranes, which produces a translucent glow when the stadium is lit. The roof is attached to the arch by 95mm-diameter steel cables. The seats at the bottom of the stadium are shades of blue representing the ocean while those at the top are shades of orange to represent an African sunset. The reason for the seats all being different colours is for the stadium to always have an illusion of being full, even when its not.

For me the best view of the stadium was from its southern end. The perfectly symmetrical shape made for an awesome photo. I did see the stadium at night as I drove past, but it would have been awesome seeing it fully lit.