Shark Spotters over Muizenberg

On my last visit to Cape Town I had to make a stop in Noordhoek and returned to Cape Town via Fish Hoek and Boyes Drive.  At the top of Boys Drive I pulled over to enjoy the view of Muizenberg Beach from the lookout where one of the shark spotters is based.  The Shark Spotting Programme is the only program of its kind in the world. Cape Town has, over the last few years, experienced an increase in the number of great white sharks sighted in the in-shore zone. In response to these events and the increased fear by water users, particularly in False Bay, two community driven programmes were started out of a need to improve the safety of recreational water users.  The amalgamation of these two initiatives resulted in the Shark Spotters programme.  How it works is that Shark Spotters are positioned at strategic points along the False Bay coastline. A spotter, like the one on this particular lookout, is placed on the mountain with polarised sunglasses and binoculars. This spotter is in radio contact with another spotter on the beach. If a shark is seen the beach spotter sounds a siren and raises a white flag with a black shark. When the siren sounds the water users are requested to leave the water and only return when the appropriate all clear signal is given.

He wasn't doing any jumping around while peering out over the edge with his hands above his eyes so it didn't seem like there were any sharks close inshore anywhere.  I peered down along the coastline anyway and thought to myself that these guys obviously know just what to look for what with all the waves, cloud shadows, surfers and pieces of floating sea bamboo around.

Atlantic seaboard sunset

 One of South Africa's most popular sunset view sites is from Signal Hill in Cape Town.  Visitors and locals alike head up to its lookout spots to see the sun set over the Atlantic Ocean.  And that is exactly what I did last week on a whirlwind visit to the city for a tourism e-marketing summit.  The conference ended just before six and I rushed up, parked the car and made my way along one of the paths to find somewhere to enjoy this magnificent sight. 

Kloof Nek cannons

Over the years the Cape has been occupied by different countries and there was always a threat of an invasion because of the Cape's strategic location.  Because of this a big number of defensive positions have been set up all around the Cape Peninsula from the time that the first European's colonised the area.  One of these can be seen at the top of Kloof Nek.  Two 12 Pounder Guns were placed on Kloof Nek in 1782 by the Dutch East India Company (VOC) to defend the settlement near the Castle from attack by a force which could land on the beach at Camps Bay.  The cannons would have been able to control the wagon track which led from Camps Bay to the Castle via Kloof Nek.

The old Cape Point Lighthouse

Cape Point is a many historic tales and legends.  In 1688 Bartolomeu Dias passed around the point in a storm without even knowing it and only got to see it for the first time on the return journey.  He named it Cabo Tormentosa or the Cape of Storms.  Its also off this point and coastline that the mythical Flying Dutchman under the command of  Captain Hendrick van der Decken is doomed to sail into eternity.  Cape Point is also one of the biggest tourist attractions in Cape Town with thousands of tourists flocking there to admire its scenic beauty and sheer cliffs.  Visitors to the point usually take the path (or funicular for those not in the mood to walk) up to the old Lighthouse at the top from where the point itself can be seen.

The old Cape Point Lighthouse was built in 1860 and could be seen out to sea from a distance of 36 miles.  The problem was that when misty and cloudy conditions moved in the lighthouse was invisible to ships.  After the Portuguese liner Lusitania wrecked just south of Cape Point in 1911 it was decided to have a new lighthouse built close to the point itself at a much lower elevation.  The old lighthouse is still around and truth be told, probably gets photographed a lot more by tourists than the new lighthouse does.

Chacma Baboons

At Cape Point there stands a little statue of a mother chacma Baboon with a baby riding on her back.  Chacma Baboons (Papio ursinus) are intimately associated with the Cape Peninsula and the Cape of Good Hope.  Baboons inside the Cape Point section of the Table Mountain National Parkpark has become somewhat of a tourist attraction.  Round about six troops either live entirely within the Cape Point section or use the section as part of their range.  The baboons in this area has evolved slightly different from their cousins elsewhere because they have longer hair due to the harsh nature of the  weather around there.  The baboons in the park is also the only primates other than humans that live off seafood.  Due to the fact that there are less food available to them in the park they go down to the coastline during low tide and search for food in the rock pools.  Unfortunately baboons in the park has also become cheeky, associating people with food and will often try to get into cars to get to visitors' bags in search of food. 

The lighthouse at Cape Point

Cape Point may not be the most southern point of Africa as many people think, but it must be one of the most dramatic spots on the South African coastline.  To get to the bottom Cape Point lighthouse one has to take a footpath along the point so most people just catch a glimpse of it from the viewpoints around the old Cape Point Lighthouse.  On my visit I didn't even notice the scaffolding around the lighthouse until I downloaded my photos.  With the harsh elements at Cape Point I'm sure the renovations is much needed.

Breathtaking views

Earth Day gets celebrated annually on this day, 22 April, to demonstrate support for environmental protection and is celebrated in more than 192 countries every year.  The name and concept of Earth Day was pioneered at a UNESCO Conference in San Francisco by John McConnell in 1969 . He proposed 21 March 1970, the first day of spring in the northern hemisphere., for the celebration of this special day.  A month later a separate Earth Day was founded by United States Senator Gaylord Nelson as an environmental teach-in first held on 22 April 1970.  While it was focused on the United States for the first twenty years, it went international in 1990 and is growing every year another 23 years down the line.

 

To celebrate Earth Day I'm showcasing some most breathtaking views of the Cape I photographed on a tour of the Cape Peninsula with the Tourism Grading Council of South Africa.  All truly 5 star views.  Who graded them? Well me, of cause.  I'm sure you will agree though. 

 

The view of Muizenberg from the Shark Spotters lookout on Boyes Drive.  The hundreds of little black specks in the water are all surfers waiting for a wave to ride.

Looking back towards Smutswinkel and Simonstown from the top of the Cape Point lookout with False Bay stretching away to Gordon's Bay and Strand in the distance.

Cape Point and the new lighthouse at the bottom visible from the old lighthouse. Truly one of South Africa's most striking and recognisable natural landmarks 

Another picture from the old Cape Point Lighthouse lookout area.  This time looking west to the Cape of Good Hope, the most south-western point of Africa.

The final picture is of one of the most scenic and dramatic drives in the world. Chapman's Peak Drive with Hout Bay in the distance, taken from the window of the vehicle I was travelling in.  Unfortunately the weather didn't allow us time up Table Mountain during that weekend otherwise I would have included one or two views from up there in the collection as well.

 

Disclosure: I went on the Cape Peninsula tour as guest of  the Tourism Grading Council of South Africa during a fully hosted blogger tour of Cape Town. I received no additional remuneration to write this post and all views expressed are my own.

Kaap die Goeie Hoop

 

Die Kaap die Goeie Hoop is die naam van die mees suid-westelike landpunt van Afrika en is letterlik 'n klipgooi van Kaappunt af geleë.  Dit is tradisioneel (en verkeerdelik net soos met Kaappunt) geag as die punt waar die Atlantiese Oseaan en die Indiese Oseaan mekaar ontmoet, terwyl die eintlike ontmoetingspunt verder ooswaarts by Kaap Agulhas - Afrika se mees suidelikste punt - is. Die koue Benguelastroom wat van Antarktika af noord vloei, ontmoet wel die warm Agulhas-stroom naby die Kaap die Goeie Hoop.

Die meeste besoekers aan Kaappunt besoek ook die Kaap die Goeie Hoop en met sekere tye staan mens omtrent in 'n tou om 'n kans te kry vir 'n foto by die bordjie (soos ek hier maak).

Kaappunt se vuurtorings

Kaappunt in die Kaap van Goeie Hoop Natuurreservaat is seker een van die plekke wat die meeste besoekers ontvang in Suid Afrika.  Alhoewel Kaappunt nie die mees suidelikste punt in Afrika is nie, is dit die suidelikste punt van die Kaapse Skiereiland en een van die plekke waarheen besoekers gaan as hulle om die Skiereiland toer.  Die ou Kaappuntvuurtoring by Kaap Maclear is een van twee vuurtorings by Kaappunt en kan bereik word deur of die trappies te klim of die makliker opsie wat die Vlieënde Hollander kabelbaan is te gebruik. Die ou vuurtoring is op 1 Mei 1860 opgerig op 'n hoogte van 249 meter bo seevlak.  Die toring was egter te hoog en is gereeld in die mis waar dit dan nie deur skepe gesien kon word nie.  Nadat die Lusitania, 'n Portugese skip, op 18 April 1911 gestrand het, is daar besluit om 'n nuwe toring op te rig. 

Wanneer mens opgeklim het tot by die ou vuurtoring kan jy Kaappunt self met sy loodregte kranse sien waar dit afreik tot waar die see op die rotse breek. 

Reg onder op Dias Punt is die "nuwe" Kaappuntvuurtoring.  Die hoeksteen van die nuwe toring is op 25 April 1914 gelê, maar dit is eers na die Eerste Wêreldoorlog voltooi en in gebruik geneem. Die toring se lamp wat omtrent 87 meter bo seevlak lê is teen sonsondergang op 11 Maart 1919 deur 'n driejaaroue meisie, Thurl Cooper, dogter van die die vuurtoring ingenieur H.C. Cooper, aangesteek.  Die nuwe Kaappuntvuurtoring is die kragtigste in Suid-Afrika en die 10 000 000 kerskrag lig flits drie keer elke dertig sekondes.

Twaalf Appostels

Die Tafelbergreeks strek van Tafelberg tot by Kaappunt en het heelwat bekende pieke en landmerke wat deel van die bergreeks uitmaak.  Bo en behalwe Tafelberg self is daar ook Leeukop, Duiwelspiek en Seinheuwel met die Twaalf Appostels wat die mees prominente pieke aan die Atlantiese kant van die Skiereiland is.  Die Twaalf Appostels maak vir die perfekte agtergrond teen die luukse strande van Clifton en Kampsbaai. 

Kalk Bay Harbour

Compared to big city harbours the fishing harbour at Kalk Bay really has something special to it and when visiting you won't get stopped by security at the gate, except if the parking lot is full.  Kalk Bay Harbour is primarily a fishing harbour so that is what you will see.  Fishing boats leaving pre-dawn and returning in the afternoons with their catch, fishing boats off loading and fishing boats moored at quayside.  The majority of the boats in the harbour are painted in bright colours which means that they are very popular with anybody wearing a camera over the shoulder. 
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But the harbour isn't just about the fishing boats.  Its also about people.  The locals gather on the breakwater to wet their lines or just sit and discuss things while visitors look on hoping to see somebody catch something.  Its amazing how easy strangers can start a conversation and it is no different here with most of the visitors ending up chatting to the locals asking about the (potential) catch.
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The harbour also has a vibrant fish market where you can by your fish fresh off the boats with snoek being a favorite.  The local "tannies" will also clean your fish for a fee and I stood there in amazement watching them scrape and cut away.
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We ended our visit to the harbour with fish and chips at Kalkies.  Who wants to sit in a fancy seafood place if there is a traditional fish and chips shop right there on the harbour with great views over the surrounding area?  Plus four of us ate for the price one would pay in the fancy restaurant.  Suddenly I feel like fish and chips tonight.

Harbour beacon

The harbour beacon light at the end of the Kalk Bay Harbour's breakwater

South African Navy Museum

Taking a walk around Simon's Town after our train ride from Kalk Bay during our summer holiday in December we "stumbled" upon the South African Navy Museum .  The museum is housed in and around the original Dockyard Magazine / Storehouse which dates back to 1743.  After 1810 when the Royal Navy moved its headquarters from Cape Town to Simon’s Town the building was extended to become the three-storey building it is today.  Just after coming through the entrance there is a number of Naval Guns from different eras, but that's just the start. 

The museum is much bigger than what one would think it is looking at it from the outside with several life-sized displays like this naval helicopter.

Amongst others there is also a life-size ship's bridge with movement and sound making it look like its on a stormy sea somewhere. Drama Princess tried it out and you can see how she is holding on to the chair with the effects scaring her a bit.

Except for the display of naval equipment, boats (or parts thereof), the helicopter, missiles, etc, etc, etc, there is also a display of paintings, photos, medals, insignia and other relics.  A special treat was spotting Former Minister of Intelligence, Ronnie Kasrils (not the guy in the photo above though) showing his wife around the museum while we were there.

Just Nuisance

Just Nuisance, along with Jock of the Bushveld, are probably the two most famous dogs in South Africa.  Nuisance, a Great Dane, was born in 1937 and as his owner worked at the naval base he started hanging out with the sailors.  Nuisance roamed around freely and began to take day trips by train with the sailors, going as far afield as Cape Town.  Although the seamen tried hiding him the conductors would find him and put him off the trains.  The railway company eventually warned that Nuisance would have to be put down unless he was prevented from boarding the trains.  This news came as a shock and the the Navy decided to officially enlist him which meant that as a member of the armed forces he would be allowed on the trains AND receive free rail travel. He was enlisted on 25 August 1939.  His surname was entered as "Nuisance" and rather than leaving the forename blank he was christened "Just".  His trade in the navy was listed as "Bonecrusher".  Just Nuisance died in 1944 and was buried with full military honours and a monument was erected in Jubilee Square in Simon's Town.  Read the whole story of Just Nuisance, the only dog ever to be officially enlisted in the Royal Navy, on Wikipedia.

Kalk Bay to Simon's Town train ride

My Kidz have never been on a train in their lives and the ideal opportunity for that first train ride presented itself while on holiday in Cape Town.  Cape Town has a very good rail commuter service and we decided to catch the train (along with quite a few other tourists) from Kalk Bay to Simon's Town.  The tickets cost next to nothing, probably less than the petrol if we had taken the car.  Waiting for the train at Kalk Bay Station the kidz were looked like they were high on sugar bouncing up and down in excitement and checking down the track the whole time to see if the train was coming yet.

Finally the train arrived and we got on our way down the Peninsula's eastern seaboard towards Simon's Town.  The kidz just loved the experience and couldn't stop looking out the windows at the passing landscape of beaches, people, buildings and ocean.

The train ride isn't that long and it probably took us about 15 or 20 minutes to travel between the two towns.  Along the way we passed Fish Hoek and Glencairn before getting off at Simon's Town Station about one kilometer outside the town centre.  After spending about two hours exploring Simon's Town on foot we headed back to the station for the return journey.  A journey well worth the travel.

The blue fishing boat

Fishing boats in Kalk Bay Harbour

Chapmans Peak Caravan Farm

We really enjoy camping and usually try to camp at two different places for our summer camping holiday.  Last year (2011) we planned to start out in Montagu and then head down to Cape Town for the second part.  It was a bit of a struggle to find a family friendly, sheltered and nicely situated caravan park, but finally decided on Chapmans Peak Caravan Farm in Noordhoek and we weren't disappointed.  Not just was it a fantastic caravan park but also very well situated to explore the Peninsula and close enough to go into the city for the day. 

Chapmans Peak Caravan Farm has 46 caravan and camp sites very nicely spaced on the 2 hectare property.  The sites are big enough for a large caravan and us with our 3 tents had more than enough space to play with.  My biggest worry before the holiday was the notorious Cape winds, but as soon as I we pulled into the caravan park my fears were snuffed out.  There were more than enough trees as well as grass hedges to stop any wind from reaching our tents and during the ten days that we were there the wind didn't bother us once.

Chapmans Peak Caravan Farm isn't called a farm for nothing as they have a whole host of farm animals roaming the park.  We had daily visits from the geese as well as the ducks while the kids all tagged along with owner Chris every evening when he went to feed the horses, cows and pigs.  The geese and ducks were normally the first once to visit a site after people packed up as they probably find lots of bugs and goggatjies when the ground sheets are lifted up.

The elaborate play park is situated in the cow camp and as long as the kids watched where they stepped they could spend hours climbing, swinging and playing in the park.  We had to go looking for them a couple of times after dark as they just wouldn't return to camp on their own.

The adventurous Chaos Boy even tried out the foofy slide.  Next time we decide to go to Cape Town on a camping holiday again I will definitively stay at Chapmans Peak Caravan Farm again.

What did we like? 

Location, shelter from wind, lots of shade, activities to keep the kids busy

What didn't we like?

The noisy caravan club camping behind us and perhaps the ablutions could do with an extra sweep a day (not that I'm complaining about it)



Harbour chains

Chains on quay side at Kalk Bay harbour on the Cape Peninsula

Slangkop Lighthouse

The Slangkop Lighthouse standing guard on the Atlantic coastline of the Cape Peninsula at Kommetjie

Chapman's Peak Drive

Chapman's Peak Drive as seen from Noordhoek Beach
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Spending 9 days in the Cape during the Summer holidays I had the  opportunity to drive along Champan's Peak Drive on two occasions and just realised again why it is seen as one of the most scenic coastal drives in the world.  Chapman's Peak Drive winds its was along the Atlantic coast of the Cape Peninsula between Noordhoek (where we stayed) and Hout Bay.  The drive is 9km long with 114 curves and hugs the 593m high Chapman's Peak.  What makes the drive so scenic is the fact that while the road twists and curves you always have cliffs towering up on the one side with a sheer drop down to the sea on the other along with magnificent coastal views all the way.

Chapman's Peak Drive seen from one of the view points along the way
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In 1607 the skipper of the British ship Contest found his vessel becalmed in what is now Hout Bay and sent his pilot, John Chapman, to row ashore in the hope of finding provisions.  The pilot later recorded the bay as Chapman's Chaunce (chance) and the name stuck to the area even though the bay was later called Hout Bay.  Construction on Chapman's Peak Drive (then known as The Hout Bay - NoordeHoek Road) started in 1915 with the use of convict labour with the first portion up to the main lookout spot being opened in 1919.  The whole road was finally opened in 1922 and since then millions of motorists, cyclists, bikers, hikers, runners and specially tourists (both local and international) have enjoyed the road with it magnificent views.

The view of Noordhoek Beach from Chapman's Peak Drive with some of the retaining structures on the left

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In June 2008 after an accident in which a boulder fell on a car and killed a person, the road was closed for major upgrades and repairs.   During the upgrades various catching nets and retaining structures were erected to minimise rock falls on the road as much as possible.  The construction work took over a year and the road was eventually reopened in October 2009.