The Settlers Family in Grahamstown

Grahamstown has two monuments to the 1820 British Settlers on top of Gun Fire Hill overlooking the town.  The most prominent is the Settlers Monument building, heart of the Grahamstown National Arts Festival, with its huge auditorium.  I prefer the second one a few hundred meters away from the building a lot more.  It depicts a British Settler family as they arrived on our shores.  When I look at it I can actually hear the little girl ask her mother if this is their new home now.  Standing there looking at the monument I wondered how many people would be able to give me a correct answer if I had to ask them what year the 1820 British Settlers arrived in Algoa Bay...

The abandoned Carlisle Bridge cricket field

No exploration expedition has ever ended in failure.  Well perhaps some have.  One or two may have run out of water trying to find a way out the desert, the odd expedition may have lost boat and crew on uncharted seas and at least one was never seen again after getting lost in the Amazon.  Detouring from Port Elizabeth via Grahamstown onto the R350 to Bedford, I wasn't really expecting to see much en route other than passing over the Great Fish River and the few caches lying in wait along the way.  So did I find anything really interesting? I think so although others may feel differently.  What? An abandoned cricket field.

Cricket was brought to South Africa by the British in the start of the 1800's and entrenched in the Eastern Cape after the arrival of the 1820 British Settlers.  The Settlers' decedents started cricket clubs in all the small Frontier Country towns and many of them still have the game played there.

The cricket club at Carlisle Bridge unfortunately is no more.  As game farming in the Eastern Cape increase it leaves less people in the districts to play cricket.  This is particularly the case at clubs away from the towns where it becomes very tough to keep numbers up.  Carlisle Bridge unfortunately falls in that category.  The club stopped playing cricket around 2003 and it didn't take long for the ground and buildings to start falling apart.

Although I passed through on a coolish early summers morning, it is said that Carlisle Bridge was the hottest place in the district to play cricket.  There is even the story of the local farmer who went to hell and on arrival asked the devil for a blanket.  He told the devil, "This place isn't hot.  Try playing cricket at Carlisle Bridge in February."

By the way, I couldn't find the Geocache at Carlisle Bridge.  Finding the abandoned cricket field was a great consolation prize though.

The church in Salem

A quick detour from the N2 between Nanaga and Grahamstown to Kenton-on-Sea took me through the village of Salem for the first time in ages last week.  I didn't have time to explore much but I did stop for a quick photo of the front of the church while parked next to the cricket field.

 

Salem was founded by the Sephton party who formed part of the 1820 British Settlers who settled in this district.  The name comes from the bible and means "peace" with the local application referring to a reconciliation between sects.

 

The original church was built with mud blocks and thatch and was consecrated in 1824.  This was replaced by a stone structure in 1832 and it was this building that served as refuge for women and children during the Frontier Wars. 

Fort Peddie flowers

A little while ago I stopped by Fort Peddie on my way from Port Elizabeth to East London and discovered this historic site while hunting for a Geocache.  The thing with most travelers is that they are so focused on the big things that they often miss the little ones.  In this case the big things were the old tower and the cavalry barracks which I both went to have a look at.  The former to find the cache and the latter because I wanted to see it as I was there already.  I noticed these pretty purple flowers growing outside the old stables and the staff working in the office nearby must have had a good laugh at me crawling around trying to get a nice pic without catching my own shadow.

Geocaching at Fort Peddie

A road trip to East London from Port Elizabeth along the N2 via Grahamstown.  The historic Fort Peddie in the town of Peddie dating back to the Frontier Wars.  A geocache.  These three things added up to a great solo adventure a couple of weeks ago.  I've been eyeing the cache at Fort Peddy for a while now but a trip to East London for a meeting was the excuse to do it.

 

This fort was built in 1835 on the banks of the Hlosi River and named after Colonel John Peddie, commanding officer of the 72nd Regiment (Seaforth Highlanders).  In May 1846, during the War of the Axe, Fort Peddie successfully withstood an attack from about 10 000 Xhosa warriors led by Chief Dilima. None of the people manning the fort were hurt or killed.

 

The fort consists of a tower and cavalry barracks, both of which are still visible.  This tower is one of many built to try and improve communication between Fort Beaufort and Fort Selwyn in Grahamstown.  The idea was to build a line of towers within telescopic sight to communicate messages between each other.  There were two lines known as the Peddie Line and the Beaufort line.  Communication was done by the use of a semaphore, a type of signaling mast first developed by Claude Chappe during the French Revolution. The remains of a semaphores can be viewed if you climb to the top of the tower.

 

The cavalry barracks is just down the hill from the tower.  The barracks and accompanying stables were built in 1840.  They were first used as living quarters for the Cape Mounted Riflemen and the 7th Regiment, led at the time by Colonel Henry Somerset, son of Lord Charles Somerset, Governor of the Cape.  During the 7th War of Land Dispossession of 1846, these two units created a turning point in the hostilities by successfully repulsing Xhosa warriors at the Battle of uMgwangqa about 6 kilometers from Peddie. 

But back to my adventure.  The cache is located on top of the tower and I knew I had to take a "special tool" along.  The special tool being my fold up ladder which although it fits in my boot can also unfold to be about four meters tall.  The ladder of cause was necessary to get me in the tower's door which is about 3 meters up with no steps.  Inside the tower I found no floor so I had to pull the ladder in to be able to climb down and up on the other side again.  From there it was up a rusty ladder attached to the top of the tower bouncing only slightly less than my heart as I climbed to the top.  After enjoying the view I started my search and found the cache container ... no, I won't tell you where.  Log sheet signed and container returned it meant that it was now time for me to make the return journey down the ladder and back towards the door.  Mission accomplished.  One more stop took me for a look around the old stables and shortly after I was back on the road towards East London.  If I wasn't a Geocacher, would I have done the little detour to go and have a look at the fort? Probably not.  It would also have meant that I would never had discovered this historic spot.  Geocaching doesn't just turn one into a modern treasure hunter, but also into an explorer.  

Roadside pineapples

Farm stalls isn't too rare a sight on South African roads and if you want to buy fresh fruit then these farm stalls are the place to get them from.  Locals selling fresh fruit from the side of the road is a lesser common sight, but often seen in areas where fruit are gown.  The Eastern Cape around the town of Bathurst is ideal for Pineapple growing and I found this roadside pineapple stall just outside of Grahamstown.

Angel shining

The Angel Statue in Grahamstown is an Anglo Boer War Memorial depicting an angel standing over a fallen Boer soldier.  Initially I wanted to try and get the sun on the angel's head as a halo, but I had to stand in a busy street to do that.  Looking at the picture afterwards I realised that having the sun on the dying soldier gives it even more of a spiritual meaning as well. 

Random Grahamstown buildings

To end off the series of posts on Grahamstown I decided to do a "Random ..." post on buildings in Grahamstown that wasn't featured in the other posts.  Mainly because I had photos of them and nothing else to post them with.

Situated between Rhodes University and the Grahamstown Botanical Garden is the old Provost Prison building.  It was completed in 1838 after the Sixth Frontier War as a fortified barracks and military prison on the Drostdy grounds.  Use of the Provost declined with the removal of the military headquarters to King William's Town in the mid-1870's, but it was again in use during the Anglo-Boer War.  Today it forms part of the Albany Museum Complex.

The Cock House is one of Grahamstown's most-loved landmarks.  It was built in 1826 by Benjamin Norden, one of the British Settlers, and was named after the Hon. William Cock, another settler who initially created the Port Alfred harbour.  Some of the well known people who lived here were Dr John Atherstone and the famous South African author, André Brink.  A guest house was opened in the building in 1991 and the best known visitor who have stayed there is Nelson Mandela himself.

This very interesting historic facade can be seen in Church Square next to the Cathedral of St Michael and St George.  Along with a number of other old buildings the town boasts some exquisite examples of Victorian architecture.

St Andrews College is one of Grahamstown's most prominent schools.  The St Andrews Memorial Clock Town stands very close to the College chapel overlooking the playing fields and was erected in 1923 in memory of Old Andreans that fell in the First World War.

Cathedral mice

The Cathedral of St Michael and St George is the most prominent building in Grahamstown and is visible from just about everywhere in town.  The church is an Anglican Cathedral and this is where the Bishop of Grahamstown keeps his throne.  Construction on the building was started in 1824 and finally completed 128 years later in 1952.

The reason for the double name of 'St. Michael and St. George' dates back to the early days of the church when the Dean excluded the Bishop from St. George's Church and the congregation split between St. George's Church and St. Michael's Pro-Cathedral, where the 4th Bishop set up his throne.  The breach was healed in 1885 after the death of the Dean when St. Michael's congregation moved, with Bishop Webb, back to St. George's.  It was decided to keep both names as part of the healing process.

The building is Victorian neo-gothic in style, with a granite and sandstone exterior, plastered interior walls and marble pillars. The building of the cathedral was finally completed in 1952 with the addition of the Lady Chapel and can accommodate about 500 people.

The cathedral contains many memorials to fallen soldiers of the conflict between the European settlers and the Xhosa.  Many of these memorial refer to the Xhosa using terms which are no longer acceptable in the Rainbow Nation of South Africa.  This lead to one of the interesting features of the cathedral where certain offensive words and frases on these memorial plaques are covered as an acknowledgement of the diversity in the Anglican Church of Southern Africa.

But now for the dilemma of the day.  How do you go to an historic cathedral like this with a 9 year old boy and keep his interest?  Well, you tell him to find the church mice... Is that a puzzled look on your face?  Let me explain.  The cathedral has two carved memorial plaques done by the well known North Yorkshire furniture maker Robert (Mouseman) Thompson.  He got his nickname from the fact that he carved a mouse in every piece he did.  

Chaos Boy found the first one...

... but the second one was hiding too well and I had to show him.

South Africa's oldest letter box

The oldest official letter box in South Africa stands on the corner Worcester Street and Somerset Street in Grahamstown.  The box is painted in the traditional Post Office red (Although there was some ugly blue graffiti on it during my visit.  That is why the picture was taken from the wrong side with the sun in front of me) and is a fluted pillar box type which was manufactured between 1857 and 1859. 

It bore the letters "VR" in curling script, denoting the reigning monarch, Queen Victoria, but sadly some of the insignia was removed by vandals at some unknown stage.  To establish its true origins would require digging at the base of the post box, but disturbing the soil that has built up around its base since the 1860's could cause the whole receptacle to collapse.  It must surely rank among the top twenty of the world's traditional "red box" survivors.

The Drostdy Gate

The Drostdy Gate forms the main walk in entrance to Rhodes University from the High Street of Grahamstown.  Originally built in 1841, it was the entrance to the military establishment which was to be on the site of the then unoccupied and unused Drostdy House grounds. 

Framed in the Drostdy Gate's arch is the clock tower of the main administration block of the university which was based on a design by Sir Herbert Baker and Francis Kendall.  The building incorporates the site of the old Drostdy which it replaced in 1910.

Birch's money chute system

T Birch & Company is one of the oldest outfitting and tailoring businesses in South Africa and opened up in Port Elizabeth in 1860.  They expanded to Grahamstown in 1864 and has become the designers and official robe makers to most of the tertiary institutions as well as courts and churches in the country.  But that isn't why I took Chaos Boy to have a look at their historic building in Grahamstown.

I took him there to see their old  money chute and cable system with which money was sent from various spots in the shop to a central cashier in the past.  Although the system isn't in use anymore, its still in working order.

As I was explaining to Chaos Boy how the system worked, one of the shop assistants stood closer and asked him if he would like to see how it works.  Do birds have wings? I picked him up and he pulled the lever closest to us in the photo.  The front section pulls back to spring load before it shoots off along the cable to the central cashier point.  Just more proof that its always possible to find something interesting to show a child, doesn't matter where you go.

Fort Selwyn

The hill overlooking Grahamstown from the east on which the prominent Settlers Monument is situated is called Gunfire Hill.  In 1835 during the 6th Frontier War (there were nine Frontier wars stretching over 100 years) it was decided to built a fort on top of the hill to protect the approaches to the town as well as its resources.  The fort was named after Captain Charles Jasper Selwyn of the Cape Corps of Royal Engineers who was responsible for the design and construction of the fort.

The fort was manned by the Royal Artillery between 1836 and 1862, when most of the garrison was withdrawn from Grahamstown.  It was again manned during the Anglo-Boer War of 1899-1902, but thereafter it fell into disrepair until its restoration in the 1970's. 

 An interesting story on how the hill got its name is that up until September 1870 a nine o'clock gun was fired from Fort Selwyn every morning, allegedly to remind Grahamstown's civil servants that they should be at work.

In 1845 a semaphore mast was erected as part of a telegraph system that was intended to connect Grahamstown with Fort Beaufort and Fort Peddie to convey messages along the defensive line.  The system however was a huge failure as the masts were often obscured by mists and haze.

Fort Selwyn forms part of the Albany Museum Complex in Grahamstown.

Grahamstown Observatory Museum

My visit to Grahamstown with Chaos Boy started on a high note with our visit to the Natural Science Museum but he got bored at the History Museum, so when I told him that we were going to a third museum he was obviously a bit reluctant to go in case it was boring again.  Oh well, I'm the dad and I make the decisions, so off we went to the Observatory Museum.

This building was originally a 19th Century jeweller's shop and family home and it's connection with the identification of the Eureka, South Africa's first authenticated diamond, in 1867 prompted De Beers Consolidated Mines Limited to purchase the building and restore it in 1981.  After the restoration it became part of the Albany Museum Complex. 

The original owner of the building, Henry Carter Galpin, was a watchmaker and jeweller who lived in Grahamstown from 1850 until his death in 1886.  His special interests - optics, astronomy and the measuring of time - are impressively reflected in this gracious multi-storeyed building.  Galpin built a Meridian Room in the house where he could ascertain the precise time of local noon - 14 minutes behind South African standard time.  Which means that if you hear the world will come to an end at a certain time, go to Grahamstown and you will have 14 minutes extra.  In the nearby Telescope Room visitors will find his 8-inch reflector telescope which was initially installed in the rooftop observatory and for which the house got its name.

But the main reason we were here was to see the only Victorian Camera Obscura in the Southern Hemisphere.  On arrival at the museum we were taken up the stairs to a little dark room on the roof.  Here, through a system of lenses and mirrors in the revolving turret in its roof, this ingenious device projects an full colour live panorama of the town and its activities onto a flat viewing surface in the darkened room.  In the picture you can see Chaos Boy looking at the image.  It looks so real that he kept on touch it, specially when a car drove by or somebody was walking past.

On the way back down you get an opportunity to have a look at the rest of the museum.  The Victorian Floor is made up of five rooms of fine furnishings recapture the atmosphere of an upper middle class home of the time.  After our visit I asked Chaos Boy if he was glad that we went.  His answer, "Why didn't you tell me that we will see that thing in the dark with the whole town on it?"  I did try....

Grahamstown History Museum

The second museum that forms part of the Albany Museum Complex in Grahamstown is the History Museum.  This museum was established in 1965 and used to be known as the 1820 Settlers Memorial Museum.  A couple of years ago it was decided to not just focus on the contribution of the 1820 British Settlers to the district anymore, but to encompass all the people that live and have lived in the Eastern Cape. 

The collections relating to the British Settlers cover agricultural equipment, domestic furniture, costume and textiles, ceramics, glass, silver, toys and dolls, militaria, medals, coins, documents and genealogical information.  Looking at some of the things in the collection, specially the furniture, you can see how they were under a wrong impression about what was waiting for them when they got here.

The ethnographic collection focuses on Southern Nguni Peoples and features the traditional dress of the Xhosa people.  On our visit there was also a temporary exhibition on traditional African music as well as a art exhibition upstairs.  There is a small art collection of original historic paintings by F T I'ons and T Baines.

After the excitement of the Natural Science Museum, Chaos Boy found the History Museum very boring.  I have to kinda agree with him on that one.  If it wasn't for my keen interest in the 1820 British Settlers, I probably wouldn't have gone in there at all.  My humble opinion is that they need to expand a lot on their exhibition on the Xhosa culture so that they can pull more feet through the door by creating an interest in the culture where tourists and visitors can come and learn more about it.

Grahamstown Natural Science Museum

Like father, like son.  Chaos Boy has developed an interest in geography, the world, its wonders and its interesting bits and pieces like archaeology, legends and mysteries.  One night I was reading to him about Egypt (he chose the book, not me) and I told him that there is a real mummy in the Natural Science Museum in Grahamstown.  He has been nagging me ever since to take him and we finally had an opportunity during the winter school holidays. 

The original Albany Museum was established 1855, making it the second oldest museum in South Africa.  Over the years the Albany Museum has developed into a complex comprising five components of which the Natural Science Museum is only one of them.  The others are the History Museum, the Observatory Museum, the Provost Prison and Fort Selwyn.  The front of the core-block of the museum building as seen from the street was build between 1889 and 1902.  In 1941 a fire gutted the building, destroying much of the exhibition material, but the Museum was rebuilt and new exhibits constructed with specimens generously supplied by other museums in South Africa.

The museum's main theme covers the natural science and the natural history of the Eastern Cape and include earth sciences, archaeology, insects, birds, mammals, and plants.  A notable exhibit is a portion of one of the Gibeon meteorites which fell around Gibeon in Namibia approximately 600 million years ago.

Chaos Boy came into his element when we entered the dinosaur and fossil exhibition area.  The majority of the fossils here were found in the Eastern Cape and the exhibit includes a reconstruction of the first dinosaur discovered in South Africa, Stegosaur Paranthodon Africanus.  Another interesting part was the fact that there is a real life archaeologist working on real fossils who called us over and explained to us what he was doing.

But dinosaurs, meteors, stuffed birds and animals apart.  We came for one thing and (as it turned out much more and really not just) one thing only.  The mummy... and her cat.

British Settlers Family Statue

The area from Port Elizabeth eastwards, specially around Grahamstown and Bathurst, is where the British Settlers settled in 1820 (see here and here).  On top of Gunfire Hill overlooking Grahamstown is the big Settlers Monument building and just down the road from it visitors will find the British Settlers Family statue.  The statue depicts a settler family as they would have looked on their arrival in Algoa Bay. 

Along with the Xhosa and the Dutch, the British Settlers form part of the rich cultural heritage that the Eastern Cape can boast with.  One of the other symbols of the Eastern Cape is the aloe, here photographed in front of the British Settlers Family statue.

1820 Settlers Monuments

The town of Grahamstown (well, its actually a city as it has a cathedral) in the Eastern Cape is situated right in the middle of Settlers country. It is in this area that the 1820 British Settlers (see here, here and here for the Settler story) settled down and it was inevetable that the town would put a monuments to them. On the hill overlooking the town the Settlers Monument was built as a living monument. Opened in 1974, the monument includes a theatre and conference centre and is used by well over 200 000 visitors a year.

At the entrance to the Monument grounds stands another monument to the settlers. This one is a statue depicting an 1820 Settlers family. The man is wearing a top hat and jacket while the woman is dressed in a long dress, as they would have arrived in those days. You can kinda hear the little girl ask, "When are we going home mommy?"

Karel Landman Monument

Driving back from Port Alfred the other day, I did a quick detour to visit a monument that I haven't seen in years. The Karel Landman Monument is situated just about halfway between Port Elizabeth and Port Alfred, just a couple of kilometers up a very good dirt road.

In 1837/8, people of Dutch decent, referred to as the Boers, decided to move away from British rule and trek northwards. In doing this they founded the old Transvaal and the Free State as part of the Great Trek. This monument was erected in 1938 (during the centenary celebrations of the Great Trek) honouring Karel Landman who farmed in this area until 1837. He became a leader in the Great Trek and took a party of about 180 trekkers and their servants on a trek of 885 kilometres into Natal. Landman became prominent in several battles with the Zulus and was the second in command of the Boer forces at the pivotal battle of Blood River.

The monument is in the shape of a 3m globe with an ox wagon traversing the it and is situated prominently on a hill overlooking the surrounding countryside.

The monument was an initiative of the then National Party and the councils of the Dutch Reformed Church in two neighbouring villages, Alexandria and Patterson. Story has it that the councils could not agree which village should 'host' the monument, so it was placed on this remote koppie between the two villages.

GPS: 33°34'42.65"S, 26° 9'42.87"E