Ganora Fossil Museum

When I grew up I wanted to be an archaeologist.  Somebody like Indiana Jones who discover lost cities and artifacts, dig up dinosaurs and made remarkable finds that would wow the world.  That dream kinda shattered when I found it it wasn't all quite as adventurous and glamorous.  Instead I went into tourism although the interest for archaeology is still there.  This interest truly got fed when I spent a night at Ganora Guestfarm out Nieu-Bethesda recently. 

 

In prehistoric times the Karoo was a huge inland swamp (and not a sea as some people claim) and 253 million years ago, during the Permian Period, the area around the present day Nieu-Bethesda was covered by big meandering rivers which flowed in a northerly direction.  The floodplains around these rivers teemed with prehistoric animals which died along the banks of the rivers, was covered with mud and got preserved as fossils.  This period was 50 million years before the first dinosaurs so the fossils in the Karoo pre-dates things like the famous T-Rex, Triceratops and Brachiosaurus.  One of the best places to go and see and learn about these fossils is Ganora Guestfarm and there is no better person to show you around than owner JP Steynberg.

When the Steybergs bought the farm in the 1990's they had no idea it contained a treasure trove of fossils and San (Bushmen) artifacts.  This they only discovered on a picnic in a riverbed on the farm a few months later.  That was the start of it and the rest, as they say, is history.  In 1998 they registered their private museum and today has one of the biggest private fossil and artifact collections in South Africa.  JP showed me around the museum and I literally didn't know where to look.  The collection truly is magnificent.  The fossils in the exhibit are on average about 280 million years old and comes from a time when mammal-like-reptiles roamed the earth.  As I said, from a pre-dinosaur time.  The collection also includes small models to give an indication of what these animals looked like, fossilised leaves from the Glossopteris trees and the Compasia dela Harpi fish fossil  of which they have the only complete example of in the world.  JP's passion for and knowledge of fossils comes through as soon as he starts talking and I was immediately sorry that I wouldn't have time to go out onto the farm with him to see fossils in their "natural" environment.

 

Next JP took me into the next room where the Bushman artifacts are on display.  Like the fossil museum this part of the museum is a registered museum as well and they keep careful record of where the artifacts were found and have cataloged them according to the law.  JP pointed out tools to grind seed and grain, arrow heads used to hunt and sharpened rock used to cut.  Also of interest is the ostrich egg shell beads.  Most of these came from caves and areas used as "workshops" on the farm and surrounding areas.  Again I cursed the fact that I had no extra time to go on a tour of the farm as I would have loved to see some of the rock paintings and natural shelters the San would have lived in.

 

It does mean that I have an excuse to return to Ganora for a weekend and give myself enough time to see all of it for myself.  Something I will seriously make work of.

Rock painting tour in the Baviaanskloof

The Baviaanskloof is an UNESCO World Heritage Site representing the Cape Floral Kingdom but it could just as easily also have been one because of the KhoiSan history and heritage that is found here.  Spending a relaxing weekend at Baviaans Lodge I learned that there is quite an important rock painting site on the property.  The extra bonus was that Alan Fogarty of Alan Tours, probably one of the top nature guides in the Eastern Cape, was spending the weekend at the lodge as well and he offered to take us and a couple of other guests up for a look.

 

After a bit of an adventurous ride on the back of Baviaans Lodge owner Rob le Roux's bakkie, we got to where we had to continue on foot.  Alan led the way with the rest of us in tow.  With Alan there it became so much more than just a hike to see rock paintings.  It became a real life moving lesson in nature and everything around us.

I made sure that I walked at the back of the group as I kept stopping for photos.  Plus I knew Alan would stop every few meters anyways and that he did, pointing out different plants and explaining their names and what they would have been used for.

We crossed a stream a couple of times and Alan pointed out that there was a small herd of kudu on the trail in front of us.  How did he know because we sure couldn't see them?  Each time we crossed the stream there were fresh tracks in the sand on the other side.  The proof that it was fresh was that the sand and rocks were wet from where they splashed through. 

 

At one stage we crossed over a rocky outcrop and Alan pointed out the ancient footpath over the rocks.  A path carved out by human and animal feet over eons.

I can't remember for the death of me what the pink flowers we found were but I don't know why some kind of wild orchid keeps popping into my head. Beautiful regardless of what they are called.

After a steepish climb we got to the overhang, facing north and slightly sheltered from the prevailing westerly's. Wow, what a view but we were here for something more.  Rock paintings.

The main rule when at such a site is NO TOUCHING!  It is amazing how many rock art sites have all but been destroyed by people touching and even worse, adding their own graffiti to the rocks.  This site though is immaculate with the drawings easily accessible and visible. 

 

Alan explained what we were looking at but most of it is nothing more than guesses as it's often difficult to translate what the shaman would have been drawing while in trance.  This specific drawing was very interesting.  It looked like people coming out from behind a rock on the left and being met by other people.  If you look at the faces of the characters it looks very much like those coming out have sad looks on their faces while those meeting them look happy.  They also seem to be carrying bundles with them.  Visitors from afar perhaps?

This drawing, if I remember correct, was on the other side of the rock and showed human and fish characters entering a crack behind the rock.

 

Probably one of the most interesting drawings is of this character which looks like it's wearing a cape.  It also looks like he is shooting something, perhaps energy, from his hands or alternatively drawing it towards himself. 

There were both animals and fish visible in a lot of the drawings

The other paintings there were lots of were hands.  Wish we could know more about these drawings and what they represented without just guessing.  I'm sure there are a lot more to learn from sites like this throughout the Baviaanskloof.  Interestingly, the only mummy every found in southern Africa was found not too far from here in 1999.  The mummy, named Moses, was dated to be about 2000 years old.  The male mummy is thought to be an ancestor of Khoisan people on the way it was buried.basis of the burial method.  The stomach contents indicate that his last meal consisted of wax berry and honeybush.  The find, although not as spectacular, are compared to some of the most important mummified finds in Egypt.  I do believe that if there is one there would be more so one day there may be more significant finds to be made in those mountains.  Makes me wonder what if I persuade wanting to me an archaeologist when I was younger. 

Disclosure: We enjoyed our visit and tour as guests of  Baviaans Lodge and Alan Tours.  I received no further remuneration, wasn't asked to write a positive post and keep full editorial control. 

Baviaans Lodge - a special oasis in the southern Baviaanskloof

The Baviaanskloof must be on the bucket list of a lot of South African travellers.  Stunning scenic beauty which, if she was a person, would put her in the top three of a Miss Universe competition.  Isolation, but not like just around the corner where you can't hear the traffic.  A true wilderness area.  UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Overnighting in caves or on a river beach next to sheer cliffs.  Challenging roads.  Unfortunately for us mere sedan drivers a big part of it is only the domain of the 4x4 boys and off-road bikes.  Sedans can get in for a short distance from both the Willowmore and Patensie sides, but we will never see the middle section of the Kloof unless our cars have some sort of death wish.  Very few people know though that sedans can also get into the southern section of the Baviaans.  It was here where the Damselfly and I escaped to for a weekend without the Kids  to recharge our batteries at Baviaans Lodge.  Yes, we left the KidZ at home for a change. 

When we first got the invitation to go I was seriously worried about getting there.  Owner Rob le Roux put our minds at ease though and the trip was on.  To get there it's about an hour and a half from Port Elizabeth to the Langkloof town of Kareedouw and from here you head along a dirt road over the Kouga Mountains and into the southern Baviaanskloof.  The lodge is situated 47km along said road and even though it was a little roughish every now and then, we comfortably got there.  With numerous photo stops, and believe me there are many possible ones, we arrived 90 minutes after hitting the dirt.  Cresting the last rise the lodge was visible in the valley below, looking like an oasis waiting to sooth our souls.  The only difference being this oasis wasn't situated in a desert but in the midst of rolling hills and mountains, meandering streams and endless scenic views.  

As we pulled up to the lodge, the first thing I noticed was that I had no cellphone reception when I wanted to check in on Facebook.  Although I did find out that the lodge does offer guest wifi, I decided not to even ask Rob about it and left my phone on the bedside table for the next 48 hours.  Something we all need to do every now and then.  But I'm digressing.  We weren't even out the car yet and Rob came to greet us.  A short tour of the main lodge with its sitting area, bar and dining room later and we were on our way to our cottage.  Baviaans Lodge has five stone cottages, all a short walk from the main lodge.  Not to sound too cliche' but each cottage is well appointed and laid out with our's, the Bush Cottage, giving us extra privacy due to its location.  The other thing that one spots immediately is the fact that there is no electricity. No city slickers, it doesn't mean the end of the world.  You can go without television for a couple of days and, like I mentioned before, you don't need to charge your mobile phone.  The best part of no electricity is that the soft light of burning lanterns and fire places give the place even more of an ambiance once the sun goes down.  Plus who needs a tv if you can watch a fire burning in the fireplace in your room.  Romantic. #nuffsaid.  Take that Eskom.

 

After putting down our bags and having a quick and welcome coffee out on the lodge's verandah, it was time to explore a little bit.  What's the use of being somewhere this beautiful and not knowing what it looks like?  Rob's youngest son, Robert, took us for a walk around the lodge and showed us one of the ancient yellowwood trees growing on the property before we headed up a nearby valley to the dam.  What dam we didn't know and he didn't say, but this is what exploring is about, isn't it?  Hopping across a stream a couple of times, with vegetation quickly changing from fynbos to a more foresty feel as we went deeper into the valley.  Suddenly the old dam loomed up in front of us.  It wasn't the Gariep Dam nor was it a run of the mill farm dam.  It had a very old look and feel to it.  The kind of thing that immediately tickles my interest.  Once here we knew we won't get lost anymore and released Robert from his responsibilities, watching him head back down the valley at a jog.  For most people just getting to the dam and enjoying the scenery and surroundings would be enough.  I wanted to go further. 

Getting the Damselfly up to the dam wall was the least of my problems though.  Getting her across to the other side where the trail continued was another thing.  It took some coaxing and promises of (hopefully) more beautiful settings and on we went.  She wasn't sorry that she did though.  About 10 minutes later we got to the most beautiful spot we encountered all weekend.  A tranquil spot with cliffs all around, a mountain pool and a small waterfall beyond.  Not another soul in sight.  All you could hear was the water and the birds.  If it was warmer I would have stripped off and gone for a swim in the pool, but being autumn and late afternoon there was no way.  So we just sat there and took in all the spot had to offer.  What a pity we had to leave after a while but by then the sun had disappeared behind the mountain and started heading to bed already.

As far as food goes, Rob's website states: We pride ourselves in offering the warmest country hospitality and  serve delicious country style cuisine. All our meals served are freshly prepared at every mealtime by your host in our Lodge kitchen. 

 

Spending two nights we were curious what the meals would consist of.  Firstly we are literally in the middle of nowhere with no shops nearby and secondly, Rob doesn't strike you as the kitchen type and with only his boys (over weekends) and one staff member as help, one would have just expected him to throw a couple of tjops and wors on the coals and serve that with roosterkoek.  Would he even know what a salad was?

 

After sitting by the fireplace with a drink chatting to the other guests, Rob came out and announced that dinner was ready.  We were well and truly hollow after our afternoon walk and all the accompanying fresh air, so took our places in anticipation as the smell from the kitchen had our mouths watering for a while already.  Out came the most yummy cheese soufflé followed by stuffed chicken breasts served with veg and as dessert, malva pudding.  Truly delicious country style food.  Exactly as promised.  Dinner the next evening by the way, consisted of vegetable soup coupled with Rob's home made buns (amongst the best I've ever had), meatballs, gravy and veg and topped off with peach pudding.  I just also want to give an honorary mention to the omlette I had the second morning.  True food porn.  Rob makes sure nobody leaves the dining room hungry.

 

Stunning accommodation... Lekker food...  Beautiful scenery... Friendly hospitality...  But Baviaans Lodge and Baviaanskloof was the gift that kept on giving.  We were still in for the biggest treat of the weekend.  Staying at the lodge the same weekend as us was Alan Fogarty of Alan Tours.  I have known Alan for years and must say that Alan must be one of the top nature guides in the Eastern Cape.  With that I mean as in better than most of the rangers that take guests around at the top notch game reserves in the province.  At breakfast Rob announced to the guests that Alan would take those of us who wanted to go and see the rock paintings on the property. WOW! What an unexpected surprised. 

 

After a short 20 minute drive on the back of Rob's bakkie, now kitted out with home made seats for our comfort, we headed off on foot along another valley and up to the overhang where the rock paintings are located.  The walk wasn't just a walk.  It was an moving lesson.  Every few steps Alan pointed out a different plant explaining names and uses, identified flowers, taught us the inner workings of termite hills and had us scan the surrounding hillsides for kudu and other animals.  He even knew that there was a few kudu up on the trail not far ahead of us by the fact that there were hoof prints in the soft sand after each stream we crossed.  How did he know they were just ahead of us?  The sand and rocks around it were wet from them splashing through.

 

The rock painting site must be one of the best I've ever been to.  Figures, animals, fish and hands adorned the rock walls.  There's even one that looks like he has a cape on and shooting energy from his hands.  A cousin of Superman's perhaps?  Yet again Alan's knowledge came through as he explained what a lot of the drawings were and the thinking behind why they were put there and what they represented.  Like the previous evening at the mountain pool I just didn't want to leave.  Luckily for us Alan wasn't in a hurry and gave us more than ample time to examine and photograph the drawings. 

 

Before we knew it our time at Baviaans Lodge was over and we trekked back to civilization, proverbial batteries recharged and ready for whatever the weeks ahead were going to throw at us.  What did I take from this weekend?  You can experience the Baviaanskloof without actually going through the main Baviaanskloof.  You don't need a 4x4 to experience this part of the Baviaanskloof cliché. Ok, I'm lying.  I didn't learn that one.  I've known all along.  People just need to experience it more.

 

Disclosure: We enjoyed our visit as guests of  Baviaans Lodge.  I received no further remuneration, wasn't asked to write a positive post and keep full editorial control.