The Great Fish Point Lighthouse - finally visited

I have driven between Port Elizabeth and East London so many times over the years yet the Great Fish Point Lighthouse has always just been a dot on the coastline some distance away.  The reason? Word has always been that the track up to the lighthouse is terrible and my Polo isn't quite high clearance nor 4x4.  A little while ago a fellow blogger posted about the lighthouse and I asked what the road was like. "Not a problem, you'll be able to do it easily." Suddenly it jumped up to the top of my Eastern Cape "to do" list. A road trip shortly after gave me the opportunity I needed and I took a sharp right off the R72 and what do you know... A quick smooth ride along a relatively smooth track. 

At 9 meters high the Great Fish Point Lighthouse is one of the smallest lighthouses on the South African coastline.  It didn't need to be built very high as it stands 76 meters above sea level and looks out across a dune veld to the coastline.  It may seem that the lighthouse is actually far from the coast (800 meters from the shoreline in fact), but the light can be seen 32 nautical miles out to sea and flash on the sea side every 10 seconds.

Although the large ships sail past quite far off these days, back in the 1800's ships had to be warned about three shallow reefs to the north-east of where the lighthouse is located.  These outcrops have taken a number of ships over the years, both before and after the erection of the lighthouse. In 1890 a Lighthouse Commission set up by the Colonial Government recommended that a lighthouse is built on this coast, but after several holdups the light was only completed in 1898, making it 120 years old this year.  Now I can say I've been there and done that.  Next time I want to stay over as it is one of only a few lighthouses on the South African coast that also offers accommodation.

Paddling on the Bushmans

Blue skies, no wind, flat water, warm winters day... Sounds like the perfect day to paddle on the Bushmans River at Kenton-on-Sea.  Or at least sit on a jetty and watch somebody do it like we did.

Driving the Woody Cape dirt road between Kenton and Alexandria

I have always just driven the R72 between Alexandria and Kenton-on-Sea and have only just seen the coastline and Alexandria dune field from the air on the occasion that the plane did fly this way en-route to or from PE airport.  I have also always just heard how beautiful the drive along the loop past Woody Cape is and during a weekend in Kenton-on-Sea decided that it was time to go and see it for myself.  

We turned off the R72 just outside of Kenton-on-Sea and headed down towards Cannon Rocks before another turn to the right onto the dirt road just before town.  My biggest concern was the condition of the dirt road but my mind was quickly at ease and the Polo only had to negotiate two or three slightly rough spots on an otherwise excellent gravel road. The highlight of the drive is definitely the stretch where you see the Alexandria dune field stretched out along the coast in front of you (and thus the reason why I would say the best direction to do this is from east to west).  To the left and out to sea you can also see Bird Island with it's very distinctive lighthouse, something not visible from Port Elizabeth.

The general scenery along the road is made up of rolling green hills, sea scapes and dairy cattle.   It isn't often that you get to see dairy cows grazing with the ocean in the background.  I'm sure if somebody had to be blindfolded and dropped here from space, they could easily guess that they are in Ireland somewhere.  

The Alexandria dune field forms part of the Addo Elephant National Park and just after the view of the dunes the road swing inland and you get to drive through a small section of coastal forest located inside the park.  A few kilometers later the road delivers you back on the tar road just outside Alexandria and we were on our way back home.

Taking the Woody Cape road wouldn't add more than probably 40 minutes or so to your journey so if you are spending a little time on Route 72 and the Sunshine Coast or not in a hurry getting to your destination, then it's well worth the drive.  Just another reason to Experience our Eastern Cape. #ExperienceEastCape

Kenton selfie and a broken tablet

A week or two ago we spent a fabulous weekend in Kenton-on-Sea on Route 72 on the Sunshine Coast.  The main reason for being there was to get away for a few days and we made good use of the opportunity to explore the stunning piece of coastline between the mouths of the Bushmans and Kariega rivers.  While there both Drama Princess and I did what we enjoyed, snapped away at pictures.  The only difference was that she was doing the teenager selfie thing with beautiful backgrounds (at 11 she's in some ways very much a teen already) and I was trying to get her to be the anchor object in my landscapes (seeing that the Damselfly and Chaos Boy isn't always keen to do it).  But Saturday night IT happened.  She came running with her tablet in hand.  The screen was busy fading out and the next minute went blank.  And then the taps opened.  She was in tears.  Let's just say the tablet has gone in for them to check was is wrong and I sure hope it won't be an expensive repair cause it's not like I have a lot of extra money just lying around.  Hoping for the best.

The mouth of the Bushmans River

The coastal Sunshine Coast town of Kenton-on-Sea is flanked by two tidal river, the Bushmans River and the Kariega River.  Normally the area is a quite and peaceful area until the summer holiday arrive.  That is when mostly inland holiday makers flock to the area with a lot of them bringing their boats to enjoy the river with.  The Bushman's River, on the western side of Kenton, is the 2nd-longest navigable river in South Africa and offers a 22km stretch of open water.  The river is ideal for water sports or just a leisurely cruise upstream.  What makes it even more attractive is that fact that most of it is unspoiled and undeveloped due to a number of game reserves along its upper reaches. 

 

A trip out to the area a week or two three ago gave me the opportunity to snap this pic of the river mouth.  I know it's not the most exciting picture, but it does show how beautiful the place is.

Kinkelbos roadworks sunset

 

Driving back from East London to Port Elizabeth last week I got stuck at the road works between Kinkelbos and Colchester.  I don't allow road works to faze me anymore and always get out, lean against the car and enjoy whatever scenery there is.  This time around the sun was setting in the west with some spectacular clouds and I grabbed my camera for a quick stop-go roadside photo shoot.  You should have seen the sky 10 minutes later as I came down the hill into Colchester with the Sundays River in the foreground.  Unfortunately by then the camera was packed away and there was nowhere to pull over with it only being one lane. Next time.

Karel Landman Monument - the globe off the beaten track

Very few people driving along the R72 coastal route between Port Elizabeth and East London have ever seen or even know of the Karel Landman monument about halfway between Nanaga and Alexandria.  The only indication that there is a monument up the dirt road is a road sign at the turnoff.  A couple of kilometers up the dirt road one stands in awe though of the magnitude of this monument in the shape of a globe.  Its huge... and kinda in the middle of nowhere. 

 

At about the centenary of the Great Trek, the idea was initiated for a local monument to commemorate the centenary of the trek from the Eastern Cape by the Voortrekker party under leadership of Karel Landman.  Landman farmed in this area until 1837 and took a party of about 180 trekkers and their servants on a trek of 885 kilometres into Natal. He became prominent in several battles with the Zulus and was the second in command of the Boer forces at the pivotal battle of Blood River

 

Well known Afrikaans architect Gerard Moerdijk was approached for the design which was approved in May of 1939, although the granite plinth had been inaugurated on 16 December 1938 already.  The concrete and terrazzo monument was manufactured by the Lupini Brothers in Johannesburg at a cost of £470 (R940 back then).  The monument was unveiled later in the year on 16 December 1939 by WA Landman, a descendent of Karel Landman.

R72 sunset

I had to make the 600 kilometer return trip from Port Elizabeth to East London twice this past week.  Luckily for me I enjoy road trips for various reasons and other than my back complaining I really didn't mind going.  Returning from the second trip it started to get late and the sun started to set as I was about 30 minutes east of Port Alfred on the R72.  A quick sunset photo with my phone and I was on the move again to get home before it got too late. 

 

Up the dune

The sand dunes at Colchester outside Port Elizabeth are the western reaches of the Alexandria dune field, the largest coastal dune field in the Southern Hemisphere.  Although it is there for anybody to see, the only way to really get to them is by boat as you have to cross the Sundays River to get there.  The Sundays River Ferry is one of my favorite attractions in Port Elizabeth and thanks to the ferry I have had the opportunity to visit the dunes before.  The climb to the top is a steep one but the view makes it worth it. 

Karel Landman monument

Mens is so gewoond om monumente in dorpe en stede asook langs groot paaie te sien, maar daar is wel monumente wat min mense te sien kry weens waar hulle gelee is.  Die Karel Landman Monument is een van dié en kan gesien word op 'n grondpad so 'n entjie van R72 tussen Port Elizabeth en Alexandria af.  Karel Landman het in die omgewing geboer tot 1837 voor hy een van die prominente Voortrekker leiers geword het.  Landman het 'n groep van omtrent 180 trekkers en hulle werkers oor 'n afstand van 885 kilometer gelei tot in Natal.  Hy het ook 'n groot rol gespeel in die Slag van Bloedrivier asook verskeie ander skermutselings met die Zulus. 

Die monument is in 1938 opgesit deur 'n samewerking tussen die kerksrade van die NG Kerke in Alexandria en Patterson.  Die probleem was dat die kerke nie kon besluit in watter dorp die monument moes opgaan nie en so is daar toe besluit op 'n koppie halfpad tussen die dorpe.  Die monument bestaan uit 'n 3 meter groot aardbol met 'n ossewa wat oor die breedte van Suid-Afrika strek.  Die monument begroet mens so half onverwag terwyl jy op die grondpad ry en mens kan amper nie help om te stop en dit van naderby te bekyk nie.

Sunset wreck

Sunset at Cannon Rocks with the shipwreck in the forground

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GPS: 33°44'39.94"S, 26°33'42.35"E

Karel Landman Monument

Driving back from Port Alfred the other day, I did a quick detour to visit a monument that I haven't seen in years. The Karel Landman Monument is situated just about halfway between Port Elizabeth and Port Alfred, just a couple of kilometers up a very good dirt road.

In 1837/8, people of Dutch decent, referred to as the Boers, decided to move away from British rule and trek northwards. In doing this they founded the old Transvaal and the Free State as part of the Great Trek. This monument was erected in 1938 (during the centenary celebrations of the Great Trek) honouring Karel Landman who farmed in this area until 1837. He became a leader in the Great Trek and took a party of about 180 trekkers and their servants on a trek of 885 kilometres into Natal. Landman became prominent in several battles with the Zulus and was the second in command of the Boer forces at the pivotal battle of Blood River.

The monument is in the shape of a 3m globe with an ox wagon traversing the it and is situated prominently on a hill overlooking the surrounding countryside.

The monument was an initiative of the then National Party and the councils of the Dutch Reformed Church in two neighbouring villages, Alexandria and Patterson. Story has it that the councils could not agree which village should 'host' the monument, so it was placed on this remote koppie between the two villages.

GPS: 33°34'42.65"S, 26° 9'42.87"E

Dias cross candle

You know when you want to take a picture of something and you have an certain image in your head, but you just can't capture it? It happens so often to me, but in this case I got just what I wanted. This was taken at the Dias cross at Kwaaihoek.

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Dias Cross at Kwaaihoek

During our December holiday at Cannon Rocks, one of the things that I really wanted to do was to visit the Dias Cross at Kwaaihoek. Bartholomew Dias was the first (known) European to discover what is today known as South Africa. He left Portugal and travel down the west coast of Africa searching for a seaway to the East. He rounded Cape Point without knowing in a storm and first set foot at Mossel Bay in 1488, where he planted a stone cross. From here he sailed on to present day Port Elizabeth and planted a cross on St Croix Island in Algoa Bay. By this time the sailors wanted to turn back home, but he persuaded them to sail for another three day. The point where they turned around on the 12th March 1488 is today called Kwaaihoek. The remnants of this cross were rediscovered in 1938 by Prof. E. Axelson and transferred to the University of the Witwatersrand in Johannesburg. This lead to a replica of the cross being erected on the spot.

As there is quite a lot of walking involved, the Damselfly decided that she and the Rugrats would rather spend the morning by the pool than to trek along with me across the dunes and back along the beach. She did drop me off at the closest spot to the point as possible. From here the first part of my journey took me through some coastal bush before the path spewed me out on what is the far eastern section of the Alexandria Dunefields. Hitting the dunes I took a moment to contemplate, but as my lift would have been back at camp already, I pressed on.

After about half and hour of following the footsteps of a couple of people that had already made the journey earlier the morning, I crested the last dune, took another sip of water (by now it was starting to get hot) and headed towards the rocky outcrop on which the cross is situated. The spot really stands out from the surrounding coastline which is mainly sand.

Leaving the cross behind my journey took me west along the beach and into the wind. Looking back at the outcrop you can see why sailors called the spot an false island as it does look like an island in the distance. But the pool was calling and the day was heating up, so I didn't daddle and headed towards home. About an hour or so later my journey ended at the Boknes main beach from where I called the Damselfly to come and pick me up. She couldn't quite believe that I was done already, but when I walk I don't stroll. I walk to get there and only stop to take photographs (and to take in the scenery. Or breath in the fresh air. Or to take photographs. Oh, I've said that already.)

Unfortunately the cross was badly vandalised a year or so ago. It is thought that the vandals were trying to get to the metal skeleton of the cross to sell it as scrap metal. That is so sad. So as you can see in the second photo of the post, the cross doesn't have an actual cross at the top. There are also a couple of other features as well as a bronze plague missing. Above is a photo of the replica of the Dias cross that stands on Market Square in Port Elizabeth to show you what it is supposed to look like. Also follow this link to see a pic of the whole cross in Port Elizabeth.

GPS: 33°43'6.06"S, 26°37'24.09"E

Kenton Rock Formations

Kenton-on-Sea has the most awesome rock formations along the beach between the Bushmans River Mouth and Middle Beach. When we were the the tide was unfortunately a too high to get nice pics of the rock pools, but here are some formations.

Carriage Rock

I'm not sure of this ones name. I think it was somewhere around Corner Rocks

Ok, so this one isn't Kenton, but at Kwaaihoek close by.

GPS: 33°41'37.96"S, 26°40'12.08"E

Kenton-on-Sea

The holiday town of Kenon-on-Sea is situated about halfway between Port Elizabeth and East London in the heart of the sunshine coast. It lies between the two tidal rivers of Bushmans River and Kariega River. The picture above is the Bushmans River. The houses on the left hand side of the rive is Bushmans River Mouth while those on the right hand side is Kenton-on-Sea.

Kenton is primarily a beach and outdoor destination with the population exploding during the summer months. Some of the activities you can do in the area are swimming & snorkeling as well as fishing, boating, sailing, water-skiing and wind-surfing on both the rivers. Boats can also be hired for cruising on the river.

The coastline between the two river mouths are divided between sheltered rocky coves and long expanses of pristine sand. A very popular beach is the sheltered Shelley Beach. To get to it one either has to walk about 15 minutes across the dunes or along the coastline. But ones you there is feels like a beach on the Mediterranean Sea.

At the top of the cliff overlooking the beach is a small memorial to Marcella (Shelly) Marinelli, born 14-1-1979, died 30-12-1997. It says: "Departed this life at Shelly Beach aged 18 years. From the sky I can often see whales and dolphins. I swear it feels like I am in heaven". I haven't been able to find any more information regarding her though.

(Edited: Thanks to Karin and Zane for the info - see comments. Follow this link to see an article about the crash)

The most popular beach around seems to be Middle Beach, about halfway between the two river mouths. When we got there it was still fairly early and quiet, but about an hour later it was packed. Middle Beach had a lagoon like feeling the day we were there as there. There was a big sand bank deeper in which meant that the part where the kids were swimming was calm and quiet.

For more information, visit Kenton-on-Sea.

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GPS: 33°41'29.18"S, 26°40'21.41"E

Beachride at sunset

Today's picture was taken about a minute before the one I posted last Thursday with the two runners in it. Moments before the runners came past a guy on a mountain bike came cycling along the shore towards the sunset. For some reason the "Lucky Luke" theme song popped into my head.

For more up in the sky pics while you hum Lucky Luke (cause I know its now stuck in your head), visit Skywatch.

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GPS: 33°44'41.59"S, 26°33'39.99"E

Rock pool fishing

Who has never chased little fish around rock pools with a net before? I always think the poor little fish living in these rock pools must be so stressed. I would go swimming for cover every time I see a couple of kids with a bright net coming my way as well. Here the Drama Princess is watching Gem Girl chasing the poor little fish around their pool.

Rusty wreck

Following on yesterday's post on (what's left of) the wreck at Cannon Rocks, I decided to show off some closeup shots of the wreck today.

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GPS: 33°44'41.59"S, 26°33'39.99"E

Cannon Rocks' wreck

During December we spent a week at Cannon Rocks on the Sunshine Coast in the Eastern Cape (about 120km east of my home town of Port Elizabeth). We stayed there the previous year as well and I just loved photographing the wreck of a fishing boat rusting away on the beach close to the resort where we stayed.

Last year the wreck looked like this (photo above) and some of the photos I took then can be seen here and here. As soon as we set up camp I jumped into the car and headed over to the wreck to go and say hi. I could barely believe my eyes. Below is what's left of it. The ocean and the elements are truly taking its toll.

Just about all of the deck and upper deck area is gone. It also looks like the rough seas had moved the wreck slightly as it's in water all the time now where it was on dry sand during low tide last time round. Because of this its now covered in moss and sea weed.

But although it looked very different from my last visit I still took quite a few pics of the wreck and will show them to you in the time to come.

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GPS: 33°44'41.59"S, 26°33'39.99"E