Things to do in Port Elizabeth this summer - Grab a backpack and take a hike

There is an Afrikaans folk song that goes, Dis heerlike Lente, die Winter's verby... (It's time for Spring now that Winter has passed - doesn't quite roll off the tongue the same in English though) which means Summer is fast approaching.  Longer days, better weather and spending more time outdoors over weekends.  Plus the holiday season is coming up quicker than my sausage dogs when I open the fridge.  With an eye on said better weather and upcoming holiday season, I was invited to participate in the "Things to do in Port Elizabeth this Summer" Blogathon.  There really is a lot to do in and around Port Elizabeth - Port Elizabeth Daily Photo is evidence of that - and rather than writing a blog post featuring all the usual suspects of Addo Elephant National Park, Route 67 and the Donkin Reserve, SAMREC, Kragga Kamma Game Park, The Boardwalk, Bayworld, restaurants in Richmond Hill, history, township tours and more, I decided to focus on my nine favorite nature trails (in no real particular order) around the Bay.  Yes you read correct, 9 trails, because I like to walk.  The ideal outdoor activity for the upcoming summer. And it's normally free or just about.

Before I start though, remember to always take out what you take in, only leave footprints behind, don't forget a hat and sunscreen, make sure somebody knows where you are walking (in case you get lost and don't return when you were supposed to) and always keep in mind that it is safer and recommended to walk in groups. So here we go. 

1 - The Humpback Dolphin Trail - Beachfront Boardwalk

Port Elizabeth must have one of the best city beach fronts in South Africa.  It is clean, beautiful, not over developed and a pleasure to explore on foot.  The walkway along the beachfront stretches all the way from the Kings Beach parking area to the lollipop beacon taking in sites like McArthur Pool, Bayworld, Humewood Beach with the old slipway, Shark Rock Pier, The Boardwalk and all the surf sites.  It's nothing strange to take an early morning stroll or jog along the beachfront and see a pod of Bottlenose Dolphins swim by.  Port Elizabeth and Algoa Bay is the Bottlenose Dolphin Capital of the World after all.  Beyond the beacon the boardwalk leaves the main beachfront behind and follows the coastline towards Cape Recife.  Very few people actually know that this section is called the Humpback Dolphin Trail and gives you some of the best uninterrupted views of Algoa Bay the city has to offer.  

Good for a nice easy early morning walk or jog or late afternoon with a ice cream in hand     

2 - Sacramento Trail

If Port Elizabeth's hiking trails had to choose a head boy then the Sacramento Trail would probably have been it.  The popular kid, a good all rounder, sporty, slightly academic and not bad looking to boot.  The Sacramento Trail is an 8 km return hike from Schoenmakerskop to Sardinia Bay and back.  Probably PE's favorite trail, the Sacramento offers some of the best coastal views around and is also a photographer and any nature lover's dream.  Rugged coastline, sandy beaches, hidden coves, fynbos, wetlands, flowers and as an added extra, Khoi middens hidden among the dunes.  And have I mentioned the awesome views? 

One of the great things about the Sacramento Trail, named after a Portuguese ship that sank here in 1647, is that even though it is an out and back trail, you can walk out along the coast and back along the top of the vegetated dunes (adding to those great views) on the bridle paths.  Spot is also welcome to tag along as long as you keep him on his leash.

The best time to do the trail is early morning followed by breakfast at the Sacramento Restaurant. The start of the trail is also a great spot to enjoy sunset from. 

Sacramento Trail map 

3 - Coastal Fynbos Trail

Very few people realise that Schoenmakerskop is also home to a second great trail.  The Coastal Fynbos Trail starts to the east of the village at Sappershoek and is located on the land side of Marine Drive.  Because of the bad soil quality, slightly lower rainfall, underlying rock and salty winds the vegetation along most of the trail consist of... you guessed it, fynbos.  Fynbos, also known as the Cape Floral Kingdom, consist of over 9 000 species of plants and the Coastal Fynbos Trail is particular attractive in spring when a lot of these are flowering.  The full circular trail covers about 7 km although there is an shorter 4 km option available if you're still only a "middle distance" walker.

Not quite the Sacramento Trail but a very good alternative if you have done the former before and looking for something different in the area  

Coastal Fynbos Trail map

4 - Cape Recife Nature Reserve - Roseate Tern Trail

The 9 km Roseate Tern Trail through the Cape Recife Nature Reserve is probably the most diverse of all the trails around Port Elizabeth.  It offers a mix of coastline where you can see see the remains of shipwrecks on the reefs, reclamation ponds full of water birds, vegetated sand dunes giving some shelter from the sun, the remains of a World War II observation station and barracks, the historic Cape Recife Lighthouse (built in 1851), various marine birds along the coast, an unofficial nudist beach and SAMREC.  The South African Marine Rehabilitation and Education Centre plays an integral part in the conservation effort to save the endangered African Penguin and is the ideal spot to start and end your walk at.  The centre also has a coffee shop where you can refill your tank before heading off to your next activity for the day but hopefully not before taking a tour to learn more about our tuxedo'd feathered friends. 

Make sure you don't forget your binocs and bird book in the car as the variety of birds along this trail is amazing.

Roseate Tern Trail map

5 - NMMU Nature Reserve - Grysbok Trail

I'm sure that as soon as this post hits the interwebs and goes viral you will start to see some comments between all the positive ones on Facebook going something like, "... blah blah unsafe...", "...waffle waffle dangerous fishcake...", "...troll troll take your life into your hands...", "...muffle puffle I live behind bars and have no life and how dare you go out and enjoy yours...".  For all those doom prophets and anybody else looking for a totally safe and secure environment to go and walk in, I have the perfect option for you.  The 830 ha NMMU Nature Reserve is fully enclosed with only access from on campus.  The Grysbok Trail offers two easy flat loops of about 2,5 km and 3,5 km or a combination of the two through coastal thicket and fynbos with the opportunity to see some game along the way.

Try out the GPS treasure hunt game of Geocaching.  The trail has about 35 caches hidden along the way.  Or just keep an eye out for some donkeys in pajamas. 

6 - Baakens Valley - Lower Guinea Fowl Trail

The Baakens Valley isn't just an excellent hiking area, it has also become very popular with trail runners and mountain bikers.  The Baakens Valley truly is Port Elizabeth's natural urban gem and really deserves more people venturing onto the Lower Guinea Fowl Trail, one of the best trails around.  Although you are at times barely a hundred meters from the nearest house it feels like you are miles away in the middle of nature with the river on one side, wind in your face, wild flowers in bloom all around, guinea fowl calling in the bush nearby and the rush of city life slowly flowing out of you. The one thing that really counts against it is that it is a 7,5 km one way trail between the 3rd Avenue Dip in Glen Hurd and Settlers Park, so make sure your transport is sorted and waiting for you when you finish walking.

There are a number of entrance / exit points along the way with shorter loops one can take around Walmer, Dodds Farm and Wellington Park if you just want to go for a quick stroll.

7 - The Island Nature Reserve - Bushbuck Trail

Hiking along the Bushbuck Trail one would be excused if you suddenly started thinking that you are on the Garden Route somewhere.  The vegetation on the western side of Port Elizabeth is very different from the south and east and consist of Alexandria coastal forest boasting indigenous tree species like Outeniqua Yellowwood, White and Hard Pear and White Milkwood.  It really is the ideal place if you need to plug your soul into the forest socket every now and then for a recharge. You also don't need to be a hard core hiker to venture onto the Bushbuck Trail with five distance options catering for everybody from the family strollers (900 m), gentle walkers (5 km), long distance guys (7,5 km) and the ultra day hikers (a full 16 km combining all the trails).  If you phone in advance and ask very nicely, one of the ECPTA rangers may just be able to accompany you on your hike as well. 

The Island has some really neat and well maintained picnic and braai spots where the non-hikers in the group can hang around while you are out enjoying nature.

8 - Van Stadens Wildflower Reserve

The Van Stadens Wildflower Reserve truly is a hikers paradise.  The 500 h reserve can be found about 35 km west of Port Elizabeth and probably is the best place around to go and see Proteas in the wild.  The nice bit about it is that there are different flowers blooming just about all through the year so there is always something to see.  Van Stadens also caters for one and all when it comes to the variety of trails with easy short walks through the fynbos, past the dams or to the Arboretum and bird hide on the plateau or longer walks along the Forest and River trails that lead down into the gorge.  Some of the trails and picnic spots also have great views of the magnificent Van Stadens arch bridge. 

If you don't enjoy walking don't stay away.  Most of the plateau area of the reserve is accessible by car so just pack a picnic basket and go throw open a blanket at one of the view points or picnic areas.

9 - Sleepy Hollow

When I first heard the name Sleepy Hollow, images of the Headless Horseman waiting for me down a dusky forest path immediately jumped to mind.  I've been several times over the last few years and have yet to see any ghostly horses or pumpkins being flung my way.  Sleepy Hollow, located a few kilometers off the Blue Horizon Bay road in the Maitland River valley, is magical though and the only trail out of my list that is on private land.  The trails are fairly short but it's quite easy to get yourself lost (not literally but rather figuratively) exploring the old abandoned mine tunnels, swimming in river pools, rock hopping up to the waterfall, watching the Knysna Loeries and foofie sliding into the Sleepy Hollow swemgat surrounded by cliffs and forest.

Take a tent or hire one of their caravans and spend the weekend at the campsite

That, I know, was a mouthful and like any good infomercial I can say, "But it's not all..."  There are a number of other nature trails I haven't even mentioned.  The Maitland Nature Reserve Trail, Aloe Trail, Flamingo Trail, Lady Slipper, Groendal, Van der Kemps Kloof and others.  Add to that the heritage trails of Route 67, the Donkin Heritage Trail and the South End Heritage Trail and there is no reason for you not to want to strap on your boots, grab a backpack, fill your water bottle and pack a few sarmies.  What are you still waiting for?  

Disclosure - This blog post is part of the #SharetheBay Port Elizzabeth #Blogathon 2016 campaign in collaboration with Cheap Flights, Nelson Mandela Bay Tourism and Travel Concept Solution.  I keep full editorial control over the post because nobody's going to tell me what I like and not.

Below are the posts of the other eight bloggers that took part in the #Blogathon

Chasing the Rainbow – Things To Do In Port Elizabeth – 1, 2 and 3 Day Itinerary
IndiKate – 48 tried-and-tested hours in Port Elizabeth
Tazz Discovers – Things To Do In Port Elizabeth: Family friendly Nelson Mandela Bay
Going Somewhere Slowly -  Things to do in Port Elizabeth in 48 Hours
Passing the Open Windows – My favourite things to do in the Friendly City
Just Ella Bella –Kid & Wallet Friendly Places in Nelson Mandela Bay
By Megan Kelly –Things to Do in Port Elizabeth (Kids + Budget Friendly!)
My Spreadsheet Brain –Things to do in Port Elizabeth (with your toddler) this summer!

Penguins on a diving board

A couple of young penguins being ushered along the "diving board" by an adult at the South African Marine Rehabilitation and Education Centre (SAMREC) in Cape Recife in Port Elizabeth.

Kids party at SAMREC

 "A birthday party with 20 kids! Are you mad?" Just one of the comments I got when I told people that Chaos Boy has invited 20 kids to his birthday party this past weekend. "What are you going to do with them? They'll wreck your house!" Another couple of comments.  Well, I asked Chaos Boy what he wanted to do for his birthday party and he decided that he wanted to take his friends to go and see the penguins at the South African Marine Rehabilitation and Education Centre (SAMREC) in the Cape Recife Nature Reserve here in Port Elizabeth.  SAMREC primarily (but not exclusively) concentrates on the conservation of the African Penguin and has a very strong educational aspect to it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The tour was conducted by SAMREC's environmental education manager, Eddie Molekoa, who expertly showed them around and kept very tight control of the group.  Before the tour I did give them a stern talk about behaving but I was still a bit worried.  Those worries went out the door when I saw the interest they all showed when Eddie started talking.  After an introduction to penguins in the foyer they all had a look into the mouse hole to see the centre's mouse house.  The next stop on the tour, the Interaction Room. 

 

The Interactive Room is also referred to as the "Must Touch Room" and this is where this bunch was in their element.  The room contains everything from a stuffed penguin, baby seal and otter to sharks teeth, whale baleen, shells, fish and, and, and...  Way too much to sit and list over here.  Lets just say that in this room kids are encouraged to touch and feel, allowing them the opportunity to experience and get in touch with things they would probably never have the opportunity to out in nature.  The problem with this room is the fact that the kids just don't want to leave.

In the animal hospital Eddie demonstrated to the kids how the penguins get washed and fed when they come to the centre.  Some of the patients would have oil on them when they arrive and the whole process gets explained.  They also got to see the amongst others the ICU area.



The last part of the tour is another highlight.  The penguin pool is where these endangered birds spend their days.  Eddie told the kids about the birds that is there at the moment and which ones would be returning to Algoa Bay soon.  Some of the kids (Drama Princess in particular) really enjoyed the windows from which you can watch the birds swim underwater while the others just couldn't stop asking question.

 

I've taken many people and members of the media to SAMREC before, but this was my first party.  I really hope more and more people get to know of this very special centre as they get no government funding and has to work with what they make through entrance fees, penguin adoptions and donations from members of the public and the private sector.

Cape Recife WWII Forward Observation Post

Port Elizabeth has arguably the most complete collection of surviving coast artillery buildings and equipment dating from the Second World War (1939-45) of any port in South Africa. Before the Second World War the Port Elizabeth Harbour actually had no defence in place except for Fort Frederick which was built in 1799 to guard the original landing place in the early days long before a harbour was even built. In 1942 it was decided to put harbour defences in place at all South Africa's harbours. 
 

Three Fortress Observation Posts (FOPs) were built at Amsterdam Hoek (Bluewater Bay), Seahill (Cape Recife) and Skoenmakerskop, together with a Port War Signal Station next to Cape Recife lighthouse. These three along with the Algoa Battery building in Humewood and the Battery Observation Post on Brookes Hill had to keep a constant lookout for approaching ships, submarines and planes. The buildings were all constructed with curvy, free-form profile of parapets, angle buttresses and 'fins' to break up their square, box-like shapes when seen from the sea against the background of the bush.

Just below the FOP in Cape Recife the ruins of the old barrack buildings can also still be seen.  The Roseatte Tern Trail through the Cape Recife Nature Reserve runs right past the ruines before heading up the hill to the observation post itself which has fantastic views of the surrounding game reserve.

Visit the South African Military History Society website for a lot more detailed information on the FOP's around Port Elizabeth.

Penguins under pressure

Last week I saw a stunning yet very sad picture by Luc Hosten on Facebook.  Two days later I was down at Cape Recife in Port Elizabeth and came across the scene photographed by Luc.  The penguin wasn't in the same position anymore and I didn't want to try and recreate the exact scene anyway, so decided on something similar yet slightly further away.  African Penguins are highly endangered and under immense pressure at the moment with some people giving them only 5 years if nothing major is done soon.  The guys at SAMREC in Cape Recife do an awesome job with limited resources but they desperately need the support of the public and corporates to keep them up and running.

Kaap Recife vuurtoring

Die Kaap Recife vuurtoring is op 1 April 1851 in gebruik geneem en staan net buite Port Elizabeth op die westelike punt van Algoabaai.  Kaap Recife is die draaipunt in Algoabaai in en word verskriklik gevaarlikste geag as gevolg van Thunderbolt-rif wat oor die eeue al verskeie bote en skepe geëis het.  Die rif self is vernoem na die HMS Thunderbolt wat in 1847 daar op die rotse geloop het.  The vuurtoring is 24 meter hoog en die lig is 4 000 000 kerskrag sterk.  Hy flits elke 30 sekondes en kan 29 seemyl ver gesien word.

Kaap Recife Natuurreservaat

Die Kaap Recife Natuurreservaat in Port Elizabeth beslaan omtrent 370 hektaar om die westelike punt van Algoabaai.  Die reservaat is idiaal vir voëlkyk beide aan die kus en om die waterherwinningspoele.  Die beste manier om die reservaat te verken is om op die 9km lange Roseate Tern wandelroete gaan.  Die roete begin by SAMREC (South African Marine Rehabilitation and Education Centre), 'n pikkewyn reddingssentrum, voor dit by die waterherwinningspoele verby gaan.  Die roete lei dan deur plantbedekte sandduine en verby 'n uitkykpos wat uit die Tweede Wêreldoorlog dateer.  Langs die kus sluit die roete die Kaap Recife vuurtoring in wat in 1851 gebou is en stap jy al langs die kus af terug tot by SAMREC. 

Sunrise at Cape Recife Lighthouse

After yesterday's post of the morning light on the ripples at Cape Recife, I realised that I actually hadn't posted the pictures of the real reason I was there for yet. Capturing a couple of photos of sunrise behind the Cape Recife Lighthouse.

This pic was taken at 06h00am, about 15 minutes before sunrise

This one (which I am blowing up and framing) was taken at 06h15am

Sand ripples

As some of you may know, I love sunset pictures. Sunrises as well, but I normally rise with the sun and not before it. When I do get by behind out of bed for a sunrise, I try to make it worth it. I was out at Cape Recife Nature Reserve (the western end of Algoa Bay) the other morning and shortly after sunrise noticed the shadows and light playing with the ripples in the sand. I have to say, this looks like it could have been an aerial picture taken over some desert as well.

Everlasting flowers

On a walk through Cape Recife Nature Reserve the other day I found this clump of Everlasting flowers next to the road (I'm not 100% sure if they are Everlasting flowers, but if anybody can tell me otherwise, I promise, I will change the title of the post).

I noticed lots of beetles on the flowers and on closer inspection found these. It looks like they may be after the nectar in the flowers. They had what looked like fine hairs all over their bodies and they were covered in pollen. I was on my knees right in the plant trying to get a good shot and heard a lady tell her friends as they walked by that her husband is like that (obviously like me) as well going after bugs and things with his camera all the time. I couldn't help but get a smile on my face. Glad its not only me.

SAMREC

I popped down to SAMREC in the Cape Recife Nature Reserve the other day to have a look at their new facilities. The South African Marine Rehabilitation Centre, SAMREC, has built a rehabilitation centre at Cape Recife to care for the sick and injured Marine Life of Algoa Bay and neighbouring coast line. Although they will specialise in marine birds, they will also rescue and look after mammals if it is required of them (and obviously if their facilities allow it). Its been a couple of years that this has been in the pipeline, but there has been lots of red tape for them to get through before getting to this point.

Visitors to the centre doesn't only come and look, you actually get taken through the whole process of how to care for oiled seabirds, specially penguins. Here some of the people who were there at the same time of me are washing dirty car oil off feathers to see which soap gets the feathers the cleanest fastest.

Port Elizabeth tourist guide, Mike Callahan, is holding a penguin (a dummy, not a real one) while another visitor is feeding it. Penguins bite, so you get taught exactly how to hold the bird for the process.

The centre has just opened and it already has its first visitor. Hope was found out in Algoa Bay covered in oil and was brought to the centre before it was even open. The day I visited Hope dived under water in her pool for the first time and the staff was just about out of their skins with excitement.

On returning to the building visitors can plop down on their knees, push their bum up in the air and peep through the front door of the mouse house. The mouse house is in recognition of the field mice who possibly may have had to give up their homes for the centre to be built.

I wish Libby and her team at SAMREC all the best in their work. May the public as well as the businesses of Port Elizabeth give you their full support.

Cape Recife Lighthouse

I haven't been to Cape Recife, the western point of Algoa Bay, for ages and last week had the opportunity to pop down quickly when I was in the area. I took a couple of quick photos before I had to hurry back to the office, but as soon as I get a chance to take a couple of days off I will be back for more.

Cape Recife

The western point of Algoa Bay is called Cape Recife. The whole surrounding area forms part of the Cape Recife Nature Reserve, but more on that another day. The beach area around Cape Recife is a mixture of sandy beaches, rock shores and reefs. The main reef at the point is Thunderbolt Reef and have become the last resting place to many ships over the years. On the right of the photo is the Cape Recife Lighthouse and on the left is one of the shipping beacons used by ships in the past when navigating into the Bay.

The Cape Recife Lighthouse was commissioned on April Fool's Day, 1 April 1851. It is a 24m high masonary tower built on a rock foundation and has a light of 4 000 000 candle power with a 29 sea mile range. The area around the lighthouse is one of the best seabird and wader watching areas in South Africa. It is also a very popular fishing area with local fishermen.